How to Grow Mint in Pots Outdoors

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

How to grow mint in pots outdoors starts with containment, because mint spreads by runners and will crowd out neighbouring plants in open ground. University extension sources agree that a pot keeps it in check, and they also cover pot size, light, watering, harvest and winter care. This guide follows those sources, and it marks the places where they stop short of a full answer for pots.

Quick answer

Use a pot about 12 to 16 inches across, since that size helps keep mint from taking over.
Give it full sun or light shade, and watch for scorch on variegated types.
Keep the soil moist without overwatering, because the Utah State sheet links overwatering to disease.
Harvest often, remove flower spikes, divide every three to four years, and cut the plant back before winter.

Choose a pot that holds the runners

Pot size is the first decision. The Maryland extension guide suggests a container about 12 to 16 inches in diameter. It also notes that runners, which it calls stolons, can be cut as needed if they try to creep out of the pot. Trimming runners is part of growing potted mint, so plan to do it.

Illinois Extension highly suggests growing mints in containers above ground. The sunk-container method is offered as an option, but Illinois notes that it does not always prove successful, because mints can move away from the container and become invasive. Above-ground pots are the simpler default.

If you do want to sink a container, Maryland describes a bottomless pot set into the ground with about an inch of the rim above the soil. That forces the runners up and over the lip, where they can be seen and trimmed before they root on the other side. The Utah State sheet describes a deeper buried container, extending 3 to 4 inches above the soil and 10 to 15 inches below it, to keep the rhizomes contained. For a herb-focused pot idea, see our post on DIY herb planters.

Give it sun and moist, rich soil

Mint grows best in full sun or partial shade. The Utah State sheet says mint prefers rich, moist and slightly acidic soils, and that it grows best in full sun or partial shade. Illinois says mints prefer a full sun location but will tolerate light shade. The University of Florida IFAS page describes a warmer climate, saying that mint grows best in soils that retain moisture and prefers light or part shade in Florida.

The Utah State sheet also warns about variegated mint. If you grow a variegated variety such as pineapple mint, full sun may scorch the leaves. A pot that sits in strong afternoon sun is therefore a reason to choose a spot with some shade.

The sources describe soil for garden planting, not a potting mix. The Utah State sheet says most soils suit mint once they are amended with compost, and it gives a compost rate per 100 square feet of garden area. That rate does not transfer directly to a pot. For a soil mix that works in containers, see our post on using raised bed soil in pots.

Water regularly, and do not overwater

Water is where potted mint most often goes wrong, and the sources stress restraint. The Utah State sheet says to water regularly during the growing season, supplying up to 1 to 2 inches per week, depending on temperatures, exposure and soil conditions. That figure is for garden planting. A pot holds less soil than a bed, so the soil can change faster, and the sources do not give a pot-specific schedule. Check the soil before you water rather than watering on a calendar.

Avoid overwatering. The Utah State sheet says overwatering leads to disease, and it adds that mint prefers moist soil but that excess water promotes root and leaf diseases.

The same sheet recommends drip irrigation as an excellent way to supply regular water and keep the foliage dry. For a pot, that means watering the soil around the plant rather than pouring water over the leaves.

Harvest often and keep the flowers off

Harvesting is also how you prune potted mint. Illinois notes that mint is often used with veal, lamb and pork dishes, as well as in beverages and jellies. Illinois says leaves can be harvested as needed, and that the more often the stems are cut, the more new growth is produced, which has the most flavorful leaves. The Utah State sheet says to start harvesting once plants are three to four inches tall, cutting stems to within an inch of the soil, ideally late in the morning on a dry, sunny day. The same sheet says one or two plants supply enough fresh cuttings for daily use, and that several more are needed for drying and storing.

Flowers reduce flavor, so cut them back. Illinois says flower spikes should be removed as they appear to maintain the flavor of the leaves. The Utah State FAQ says that when mint is allowed to bloom, the oil in the leaves decreases and the leaves become less flavorful. Pinch the blossoms back as they show, or cut the plant back to within an inch of the soil two or three times a year.

For storage, the Utah State sheet says fresh mint keeps about a week in water in the refrigerator. To dry it, hang the cut stems upside down in a hot, shady place until they are brittle, or spread the leaves on a screen in the shade. Store the dried mint in an airtight container for up to a year. For fresh leaves you want to keep longer, the Utah State sheet says individual leaves do not freeze well, but chopped leaves frozen with water in an ice cube tray keep their taste when thawed. Illinois adds that leaves meant for drying are best taken as the flowers begin to appear.

The storage figures differ between sources. Illinois says a bunch in a glass of water keeps fresh for three to seven days, and that dry leaves wrapped in plastic keep for about a week in the refrigerator. Utah State gives a week in water in the refrigerator, so the sources do not agree on one method. The Florida IFAS page adds a drying condition: because mint is a tender-leaf herb, it needs darkness and low humidity while it dries, or the leaves turn dark and moldy.

Divide the plant to keep it vigorous

Division keeps potted mint productive. Illinois says to divide mint every three to four years to keep plants vigorous. The Utah State sheet says to divide and replant established plants in spring, before growth starts, or early in the fall.

The sources also describe other ways to get new plants. Utah State says mint can be grown from seed or transplants. IFAS says mint is propagated by cuttings or division, and that runners can be removed and transplanted or passed along to share. Utah State notes that mints readily hybridize, so plants grown from seed often are not true to type. For a named variety, the sheet recommends an established plant from a reliable source, or a cutting or division from a known plant.

Planting depth matters when you replant a division. The Utah State sheet says transplants should be planted with roots just beneath the soil surface.

Protect the pot through winter

Winter is the real test for potted mint. The Utah State sheet gives the plant a general hardiness of about -20 degrees Fahrenheit, and Illinois calls mints extremely hardy perennials. Those figures describe the plant, not the pot. The Penn State guidance explains why pots need extra care: the roots of above-ground container plants can be the same temperature as the winter air.

Penn State advises planning for conditions about two USDA zones harsher than the plant’s rating, using larger pots for insulation, and providing some protection. Its guidance is written for container plants in general. It does not give a mint-specific zone, so check the rating for your location before you decide how much protection to give.

Penn State also lists moving pots to an unheated garage, shed, cold frame or basement. It warns that the soil should be checked periodically but not overwatered, or the plant may get root rot. Colorado State offers a different route for a pot that cannot be moved: sink the pot and its plant into the soil in a protected spot, mulch it six to twelve inches deep, and check the pots monthly through the winter, watering if needed to prevent desiccation.

Pot material matters in winter too. Penn State advises against leaving clay, ceramic or glazed pottery pots exposed to the elements, since they may crack, and says very large wooden or concrete planters can usually stay in place. Colorado State adds that large pots should go to a protected area in the garden in November, or when the soil has cooled, and that if sinking the pot is not possible, containers can be clustered in a protected site under the house eaves on the north or east side.

Before winter, the Utah State sheet advises cutting each plant back to the ground, which it says discourages pests and diseases.

How we chose

We chose sources that met three tests: a university or cooperative extension publication, an HTTP 200 response when opened on 2026-10-23, and coverage of pots, watering, harvest, division or winter care. The Illinois, Maryland, Florida IFAS and Utah State pages covered the growing steps for mint itself. The Penn State and Colorado State pages were used for winter care of potted perennials in general, and the text says so where it applies. Retail and blog results were not used. The Utah State sheet was read as a PDF after text extraction.

What we could not verify

The sources agree on the main steps, but several questions for a pot remain open. They do not give a potting-mix recipe for mint in a container, and their soil advice is for garden planting. They do not give a watering schedule for pots, so the 1 to 2 inches per week figure is a garden figure. The winter guidance covers potted perennials in general, not mint specifically.

What the sources do not say

The Utah State hardiness figure of about -20 degrees Fahrenheit does not say whether it applies to a plant in a pot. None of the pages gives a pot size for mint beyond the Maryland range of 12 to 16 inches, and the Utah State depths apply only to a sunk container. Illinois says the sunk method does not always work. The sources do not say how long a potted mint plant should stay in the same pot before division, beyond the three-to-four-year figure from Illinois. None of the pages recommends a product, a container brand or a treatment for pests or disease, and this guide does not either.

Frequently asked questions

Should mint be grown in a pot outdoors?

Illinois says above-ground containers are the approach it highly suggests for mint. Utah State says mint is best planted in containers or where its roots are confined. Both sources treat containment as the main reason to use a pot.

What size pot works for mint?

Maryland Extension suggests a container about 12 to 16 inches in diameter. The Utah State depths of 10 to 15 inches below the soil apply to a sunk container, not to a freestanding pot.

How much water does potted mint need?

The sources do not give a figure for pots. Utah State gives 1 to 2 inches per week for garden planting, and it warns that overwatering leads to disease. Check the soil before you water.

Can potted mint survive winter outdoors?

The sources give general guidance rather than a mint-specific answer. Penn State advises going two zones colder, using larger pots and providing some protection. Colorado State suggests sinking and mulching the pot, or moving it to an unheated garage or shed.

When is the right time to cut back mint?

Utah State says to cut stems to within an inch of the soil two or three times a season, and to cut each plant back to the ground before winter. Illinois says to remove flower spikes as they appear.

Sources

https://extension.illinois.edu/herbs/mint (opened 2026-10-23)
https://extension.umd.edu/resource/growing-mint-home-garden (opened 2026-10-23)
https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/mint (opened 2026-10-23)
https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/mint-in-the-garden.pdf (opened 2026-10-23)
https://extension.psu.edu/overwintering-plants-in-containers (opened 2026-10-23)
https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/miscellaneous/2028-overwintering-container-plants/ (opened 2026-10-23)