How to Overwinter Potted Herbs

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How to overwinter potted herbs depends on two questions: can the herb handle your cold, and can you give it enough light indoors? Many herbs grow well inside through winter, but light is usually the first limit. The sources we opened agree on the basic needs, which are light, warmth, humidity and careful watering. They disagree on exact light hours and on winter watering, so this guide shows the range and the check that settles each question.

Quick answer

Give herbs bright light, and add a grow light on a timer for 12 to 16 hours a day if windows are weak.
Keep rooms at least 65 to 70°F by day and 55 to 60°F at night, as Penn State Extension recommends.
Water the potting mix when it starts to dry out, and never let basil dry out completely.
Group pots or add a humidifier, because forced-air heat dries out winter air.

Pick herbs that can come inside

Not every herb suits a winter window. Penn State says choosing the right herbs “is crucial for successful indoor gardening”, and its list starts with “Great options for your indoor herb garden include chives”, followed by basil and cilantro. The Illinois release frames the idea simply: “Indoor green houseplants are an option, so add some herbs to the mix this fall and winter.” Penn State also says you can grow herbs “just in winter to protect tender herbs such as basil.” Iowa State Extension lists herbs that grow well indoors, including basil, cilantro, parsley, chervil, rosemary, bay laurel, mint, chives, oregano, thyme, sage and lemongrass. Its general answer is that “Many herbs can be successfully grown indoors during the winter months.”

Hardiness varies. Penn State says “Although most herbs can survive temperatures in the mid to low 40s, others cannot”. Basil is the clearest case, since it “cannot survive temperatures lower than 50°F”, and it should not sit on a winter windowsill. For perennial herbs, Iowa State says they “can be overwintered indoors but should be moved outdoors in late spring when temperatures warm up.” Maryland adds that “Perennial herbs, however, will do better if they are moved outdoors during the summer.”

Timing the move matters. Maryland’s advice is clear: “To prevent plant damage, bring herbs indoors before a frost.” It also notes an exception for some container herbs: “Mint, chives, and tarragon being grown in containers benefit from a light frost before being moved indoors”. The sources do not give a calendar date for the move, which is covered in the section on what they do not say.

Light is usually the limit

Iowa State says it plainly: “Light is often the most limiting factor when growing herbs indoors.” Its target is “Ideally, plants receive four to six hours of direct sunlight a day.” Penn State gives a similar figure: “Most herbs need 6 hours of direct sunlight.” The Illinois Extension news release sets a higher bar, saying “Herbs usually need between six to eight hours of bright light each day.” The sources disagree, so aim for the top of the range your window can offer.

When windows fall short, add light on a schedule. Illinois explains the gap: “Plants need around two hours of supplemental lighting for every one hour of natural light.” That is why “This means most supplemental lighting must be on for 12 to 16 hours per day.” Iowa State gives the same instruction: “Put the grow light on a timer for 12 to 16 hours a day.” Illinois adds that “An automatic timer can help ensure the lights get switched on and off each day.” Its reason for the longer run is that “supplemental light is not equivalent to natural light”. Maryland puts the winter figure higher, saying grow lights set to shine 14 to 16 hours a day are necessary, so the timer setting is another point where the sources differ. Iowa State also says that “Some species, like parsley, mint, and chives, will tolerate a little less light,” while rosemary, thyme and bay laurel “may need supplemental light” from a grow light. For a stand that holds lights, see our guide to plant stands with grow lights for indoors.

Turn the pots as well. Penn State advises that you “rotate pots often so that each side gets enough light for uniform growth.” Illinois explains why: “Plants will lean toward the light, which is called phototropism.” Long, thin stems are the warning sign, since “If long, lanky growth is noticed, more light may be needed.”

Keep the room warm and steady

Penn State gives the target range: “Keep herbs in rooms with temperatures of at least 65 to 70°F during the day and 55 to 60°F at night.” These numbers describe the indoor target, not the outdoor range. The same article notes that most herbs can survive the mid to low 40s, so a chilly room is not the same as a freezing one. The article does not say how long a herb can hold up in that range, so keep the room in the target band whenever you can.

Basil needs the most warmth of the common herbs. Penn State’s warning is specific: basil “cannot survive temperatures lower than 50°F”, so a cold window that drops below that line is a poor place for it. Give basil the warmest spot you have, and check it on cold nights, since the sources give no other window rule for basil.

Handle winter humidity

Heating dries the air. Penn State explains: “Homes and buildings with central, forced-air heating tend to have the driest winter conditions for indoor plants.” Its first fix is simple: “containers should be grouped to create a more humid environment.” It adds that other options include “setting containers in a pan of moist pebbles or near a humidifier.”

Illinois’s older blog post explains the soil side of the problem: “The heaters in our homes remove humidity, which dries out the soil.” It also suggests that “Grouping plants together, misting them daily or placing a humidifier next to them can give them needed moisture.” The misting idea appears only in that older post, so treat it as one option among several rather than a required step. Penn State adds that air too low in humidity dries the leaves, and that “For spaces that are too humid, turning on a fan can improve air circulation.” Penn State’s advice on air is about balance, not a single fix.

Water when the mix dries

Watering is where the sources differ most. Penn State gives the standard check: “Water the potting mix when it starts to dry out.” It then makes exceptions. Bay, marjoram, oregano, sage, thyme and rosemary “should dry out slightly between waterings.” Basil is the opposite, and the article says “never allow the potting mix to dry out completely” for it.

Maryland’s advice matches the caution: “be careful not to overwater any of the containers.” Its list of herbs that need drying between waterings includes bay, marjoram, oregano, sage and thyme, and it asks for regular, thorough watering with room-temperature water.

Illinois’s 2015 blog says something different: “Plants inside during the winter months need more watering than in the summer.” Because that post is older, and because it conflicts with the drying advice above, the safest guide is the one the newer sources share: check the mix before each watering rather than follow a fixed schedule.

Choose containers and soil

Pot material affects drying. Iowa State says that “Clay or terracotta containers work particularly well for herbs because they are more porous, allowing the potting mix to dry well between waterings.” That matters for herbs that need to dry out, as the Penn State list shows. Penn State also asks for containers with “a drainage hole”, so water can leave the pot.

The mix matters too. Iowa State advises planting herbs “in containers with a well-drained potting soil.” Maryland recommends “a commercial soilless mix that drains well and is lightweight.” Both points lead to the same practical step: choose a light, free-draining mix in a pot that breathes.

Feed lightly through the season

Indoor herbs still need nutrients, though not many. Illinois suggests: “Plan on using a water-soluble fertilizer every two weeks for herbs,” and it warns against feeding more often than that. Maryland makes the broader point that “Indoor plants will need essentially the same conditions as herbs grown outdoors”, so light, drainage and feeding all matter together. Its maintenance list covers the rest of the year: “yearly repotting, replanting of annual herbs, seasonal moves outdoors for perennial herbs, and occasional pruning.” Maryland also asks for “periodic light fertilizing”, which is a lighter rhythm than the two-week schedule Illinois gives.

Mistakes to avoid

Putting basil on a cold windowsill. Penn State says it cannot survive temperatures lower than 50°F.
Relying on a dim window alone. Iowa State says light is often the most limiting factor.
Watering on a calendar. Penn State says to water when the mix starts to dry out.
Overwatering containers. Maryland asks gardeners to be careful not to overwater any of the containers.
Bringing herbs in too late. Maryland says to bring herbs indoors before a frost.

How we chose

We opened five pages with curl on 2026-10-22, and all five returned HTTP 200 with readable text: the Penn State Extension guide, the Iowa State Extension FAQ, the Illinois Extension news release, the University of Maryland Extension resource and an Illinois Extension blog post from 2015. We chose them for their extension guidance on indoor herbs. We treated the 2015 post as an older view on watering, and where the sources disagree on light hours or watering, we show the range instead of picking one. We did not rank herbs, and we named no product.

What we could not verify

The sources do not give a calendar date for moving herbs indoors, and they do not give a fixed number of days before frost. Maryland’s advice to bring herbs in before frost has no date attached. The sources also do not say how long a herb can tolerate the mid to low 40s before it is harmed, or how fast a pot dries out in a heated room.

What the sources do not say

The sources do not say which light hours suit a given herb, because the Iowa State and Penn State figures of four to six and six hours differ from the six to eight hours in the Illinois release. They do not say whether a misting routine helps beyond the older Illinois suggestion. None of the sources names a product for a grow light, a humidifier or a pot, and this guide names none.

Frequently asked questions

Can every herb come indoors for winter?

No. Penn State says most herbs can survive temperatures in the mid to low 40s, but basil cannot survive temperatures lower than 50°F. Iowa State lists basil, cilantro, parsley, chervil, rosemary, bay laurel, mint, chives, oregano, thyme, sage and lemongrass as herbs that grow well indoors.

How much light do potted herbs need in winter?

The sources disagree. Iowa State says four to six hours of direct sunlight, Penn State says six hours, and Illinois says six to eight hours of bright light. Where windows fall short, Iowa State and Illinois both suggest a timer-controlled grow light for 12 to 16 hours a day.

Should the mix stay moist all winter?

Not for every herb. Penn State says to water when the mix starts to dry out, and to let bay, marjoram, oregano, sage, thyme and rosemary dry out slightly between waterings. Basil should never dry out completely.

Does indoor heat change how often to water?

Illinois’s 2015 post says plants inside during winter need more watering than in summer, because heating dries the soil. That view conflicts with the drying advice from Penn State and Maryland, so check the mix before each watering rather than follow a fixed schedule.

When should herbs come inside?

Maryland says to bring herbs indoors before a frost, and it notes that mint, chives and tarragon grown in containers benefit from a light frost first. Iowa State says perennial herbs can be overwintered indoors and should move outdoors in late spring. For a pot that stays outside longer, see our guide to outdoor planters for winter.

Bottom line

Give herbs bright light on a timer if needed, keep rooms warm, group pots for humidity, and water when the mix starts to dry out. Basil needs more warmth than most herbs, and the light hours differ between sources, so start at the top of each range and adjust from there.

Sources

https://extension.psu.edu/growing-herbs-indoors (opened 2026-10-22)
https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/faq/can-i-grow-herbs-indoors-over-winter (opened 2026-10-22)
https://extension.illinois.edu/news-releases/keep-growing-herbs-indoors-fall-winter (opened 2026-10-22)
https://extension.umd.edu/resource/growing-herbs-containers-and-indoors (opened 2026-10-22)
https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/flowers-fruits-and-frass/2015-01-05-tips-growing-herbs-inside-winter (opened 2026-10-22)