How to Grow Snow Peas

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How to grow snow peas comes down to four habits: plant early in cool soil, give the vines a support, keep the soil evenly moist, and pick the pods while they are young. Four sources cover those steps. Utah State University Extension has the most detailed fact sheet, Mississippi State University Extension and University of Vermont Extension add planting and harvest notes, and Iowa State University Extension explains what snow peas are. The pages agree on the basics but describe the harvest moment differently, so the guide lays out each view.

Quick answer

Plant seeds about half an inch to 1 inch deep, 1 to 2 inches apart in the row, as soon as the soil can be worked in spring.
Give the vines a trellis, netting or strings. Snap and snow peas climb on their own, so most of the work is building the support.
Keep the soil moist, especially after flowering, and avoid extra nitrogen, which pushes leaves at the expense of pods.
Pick pods while they are still young and tender, before the peas swell, and check the plants often.

What snow peas are

Iowa State University Extension gives the plainest definition. Its page says “Snow peas are an edible podded pea” and notes that they are “also sometimes referred to as sugar peas.” It adds that “Young pods are tender, stringless, and may be stir-fried in Chinese dishes, steamed, or cooked like snap beans.” That description matters at picking time, because the pod itself is eaten.

Mississippi State University Extension takes the growing side. Its page says to “Grow sugar peas (snow peas) the same way as English peas.” Utah State University Extension lists snow peas with snap peas in its pea-type table, which means the two share most growing advice. Neither page treats snow peas as a special case, so the guide follows the general pea advice and flags where a page is speaking only about another type.

Light and drainage come first in every source. Utah State University Extension says that “Peas require full sun and fertile, well-drained soil for maximum yield.” University of Vermont Extension puts the same needs in one line: “All garden peas require the same considerations in the garden: ample sunlight, cooler temperatures and good drainage.” A site that stays soggy in spring does not meet that need.

Timing and cool soil

Utah State University Extension says to “Start planting peas as soon as you can till the soil in the spring.” It gives seedling emergence in 7 to 10 days when the soil is 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. It also warns that “Hot temperatures and water stress will reduce yields and pod quality”, which is a reason not to plant so late that the vines meet summer heat.

University of Vermont Extension uses a soil temperature rule instead of a calendar. It says peas “can be planted when the soil temperature is around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, which for most places in Vermont is mid- to late April.” Mississippi State University Extension sets at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit as the soil temperature at planting for English peas, and tells the reader to grow snow peas the same way. The three figures are not the same, so the soil thermometer may matter more than the date on the calendar.

Fall planting is a separate question. Utah State University Extension says “Garden peas can be planted again around mid-August in Northern Utah and mid-September in warm areas of Southern Utah for fall production.” It adds that “Yields of fall grown peas are much lower than spring sown plantings”. Those dates are for Utah, and the page does not give a fall plan for snow peas in particular.

Planting depth and spacing

Utah State University Extension gives a planting depth of half an inch to 1 inch, with seeds 1 to 2 inches apart and rows 12 to 24 inches apart. Mississippi State University Extension gives 1 inch deep and 1 inch apart, with 8 to 10 inches between double rows. University of Vermont Extension does not give depth or spacing numbers and says to “Plant pea seeds according to the recommended depth and spacing on the seed packet.”

The spacing figures disagree. A single row 12 to 24 inches apart from Utah State is a different layout from a double row with 8 to 10 inches between the two lines, and the seed packet may use a third figure. The guide does not choose one. A grower who follows the packet has the simplest path, and a grower who wants a trellis down the middle of a double row should check the packet for the vine height first.

Thinning is less of a worry than many gardeners expect. Utah State University Extension says that “No thinning is necessary if plant stands are too thick.” That line is useful because a sowing of snow peas often comes up thicker than planned.

Support and trellis

Support is the step most of the sources treat as important. Utah State University Extension says “Taller pea varieties are more productive and easier to harvest if caged, trellised, or fenced.” It also says “Snap and snow peas climb naturally so little additional work is required other than constructing the supports.” Mississippi State University Extension says “Some form of support makes harvesting easier and keeps vines off the ground, reducing losses to pod rot.” University of Vermont Extension asks the grower to “Install a trellis, paying close attention to the anticipated height of the plant.”

Vine height depends on the variety. The Mississippi State list gives snow pea vines from about 2 feet on a dwarf type to about 4 feet on the taller ones, so a trellis built for the tallest type would be more than a dwarf type needs. For a netting option, see garden trellis netting, and for the poles that hold it, see garden stakes.

Water, mulch and feeding

Utah State University Extension says “Peas require regular watering throughout growth for best production”, and that “Water needs are most critical after flowering.” It also warns against too much water, saying “Do not over water as wet soil promotes root rot diseases and slows plant growth.” The page recommends organic mulches, which “help conserve water, supply extra nutrients, and reduce weeding.”

Feeding is light. Utah State University Extension says “Peas do not require additional fertilizer if a fertilizer or compost was applied at planting”, and adds that “Adding more nitrogen will overstimulate leaf growth, delay flowering and reduce pod set.” Mississippi State University Extension gives a fall step for English peas: add all fertilizer except nitrogen. The advice to grow snow peas the same way suggests the same approach, though the page does not say so for snow peas.

Pests and diseases

Aphids are the pest the sources name most often. Utah State University Extension describes them this way: “Aphids are green to pinkish in color and form large colonies under leaves near the tips of new growth.” Its control list includes a water spray, and it says to “Wash aphids from plants with a stream of water.” Worms are a second concern. The same page says “Worms often hide under organic mulches”, which is a reason to check the mulch as well as the vines.

Timing also helps with mildew. Utah State University Extension says “Spring crops have less mildew problems than autumn plantings.” The page also mentions insecticides in general terms. This guide does not repeat product advice, because product choice belongs on the label of the product itself.

Harvest and picking

The sources disagree on the signal for a ready pod. University of Vermont Extension says “Snow peas are harvested when the pod is fairly flat with the peas just beginning to form.” Iowa State University Extension says “Snow peas are harvested when the pods are long and thin, just as the seeds begin to develop.” Mississippi State University Extension gives a rule that avoids the shape question: “Harvest edible pods while still young and tender, and before peas enlarge.” All three point to small, early peas, so the disagreement is about shape rather than size.

Pick often. University of Vermont Extension warns that “These peas need to be harvested regularly as they can quickly over-ripen, compromising the texture and flavor.” It also notes that “Some snow peas have a tough string along the edge that can be removed before eating.” The Utah State picking advice is written for snap and garden peas, so the guide does not apply it to snow peas.

Stringy pods and flower drop

Two problems come up in the Utah State questions. First, flowers may drop when a plant is stressed. The page says “Plants may have been water or heat stressed just prior to or after the flowers open.” Second, stringiness. The page says “Stringy peas are further evidence of heat or water stress.” The page’s remedy is to keep the soil moist and mulch later plantings.

How the four sources compare

Point	Utah State University Extension	Mississippi State University Extension	University of Vermont Extension	Iowa State University Extension
Planting depth	Half an inch to 1 inch	1 inch	Seed packet	Not stated
Spacing in the row	1 to 2 inches	1 inch	Seed packet	Not stated
Row layout	Rows 12 to 24 inches apart	8 to 10 inches between double rows	Seed packet	Not stated
Support	Caged, trellised or fenced for taller types	Some form of support	Install a trellis	Not stated
Harvest signal	Not given for snow peas	Young, tender, before peas enlarge	Fairly flat, peas just beginning to form	Long and thin, seeds beginning to develop
Cool soil	55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit for emergence	45 degrees Fahrenheit at planting, for English peas	About 50 degrees Fahrenheit	Not stated

The table shows where the pages agree and where they do not. Support and watering are the most consistent points. Harvest is the least consistent, and the planting depth figures differ by up to half an inch. Where a cell says Not stated, the page is silent rather than contrary.

How we chose

The guide draws on four pages, opened with curl on 2026-10-23: Utah State University Extension’s fact sheet on peas, Mississippi State University Extension’s pea page, the University of Vermont Extension article “Give Peas a Chance”, and the Iowa State University Extension question “What are snow peas?” Each page covers snow peas or peas that include them. The passages in quotation marks were checked against the text of the page they come from, and the other sentences paraphrase those pages. Where two pages give different figures, the guide shows both.

The pages differ in date and region. The Utah State fact sheet was published in May 2020 and is written for Utah. The Vermont article is dated March 3, 2022. The Iowa State question is dated April 10, 2024. The Mississippi State page has no date in the text the guide opened. The regional dates are noted where they appear, and the guide does not carry them to other states.

What we could not verify

The four pages give a usable base for snow peas, but none of them is a snow pea guide alone. Most of the planting numbers come from general pea advice, and the Utah State harvest timing applies to snap and garden peas. The guide treats those points as general pea advice and does not present them as snow pea figures.

What the sources do not say

None of the four pages gives days to maturity for snow peas. Utah State University Extension gives 60 to 70 days for peas generally, depending on the variety, and the guide reports only that figure. No page sets a fertilizer schedule for snow peas after planting, and none gives a trellis height for a particular variety. The sources do not say how long a row of snow peas keeps producing, and they do not give a yield per row for snow peas. Pest products are left to labels, and the guide does not give product or fungicide advice.

Frequently asked questions

Can snow peas be planted in the fall?

The sources describe fall planting for garden peas in Utah. Utah State University Extension says fall plantings go in around mid-August in northern Utah and mid-September in warm parts of southern Utah. It also says fall yields are much lower than spring plantings. Snow peas are not treated separately, so a fall planting in another region is outside what the pages cover.

Do snow peas need a trellis?

Most growers will want one. Utah State University Extension says snap and snow peas climb naturally, so the support is the main job. Mississippi State University Extension says support makes harvest easier and keeps the vines off the ground. The Mississippi page also notes that the vine height depends on the variety.

How deep should snow pea seeds be planted?

Utah State University Extension says half an inch to 1 inch, Mississippi State University Extension says 1 inch, and University of Vermont Extension says to follow the seed packet. Choose the figure from the packet first. If the packet gives no depth, the two extension figures bracket the usual range.

Why do snow pea pods turn stringy?

The Utah State questions give the cause. The page says “Stringy peas are further evidence of heat or water stress.” Keep the soil steadily moist and pick the pods young. The University of Vermont page also notes that some snow peas have a string along the edge that can be removed before eating.

Are snow peas the same as sugar peas?

Iowa State University Extension says snow peas are “also sometimes referred to as sugar peas.” The Mississippi State page lists snow pea varieties under the same name, so the two names describe the same crop in these sources. Read the variety name on the seed packet.

Sources

https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/peas-in-the-garden.pdf (opened 2026-10-23)
https://accessibility.extension.msstate.edu/lawn-and-garden/vegetable-gardens/peas-other (opened 2026-10-23)
https://www.uvm.edu/extension/news/give-peas-chance (opened 2026-10-23)
https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/faq/what-are-snow-peas (opened 2026-10-23)