How to Root Rose Cuttings

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Knowing how to root rose cuttings takes four things: a healthy stem, a clean cut, a pot or bed of moist, well-drained soil, and patience through the cool months. The extension pages and the library answer we opened agree on the basics. Take a stem that has bloomed, keep the cutting out of hot sun, and do not let it dry out. They disagree on timing and stem length, so this guide follows the steps they share and marks where they differ.

Quick answer

Take a stem tip about 6 to 8 inches long, cut at a 45 degree angle from the parent plant.
Remove the spent flowers and the lower leaves, then stick the cutting about half its length into moist, sandy soil.
Keep the medium moist but not wet, in bright light with no direct sun, under a cover for humidity.
Start three or four cuttings per variety, because not all of them will root.

Pick the right stem and the right season

Start with healthy plant material. The UC Cooperative Extension handout puts it first: “Always begin with healthy plant material and sharp, clean tools (hand pruners or a knife).” The Alabama Cooperative Extension column adds that “The tip of a stem that recently bloomed is generally the easiest part to root.” So choose a cane that has recently bloomed, and cut from its tip.

Timing is where the sources split. The NC State Extension article says that “the best success will be with cuttings taken November through February.” The Alabama column makes the same window the norm for most varieties, since “the cool months from November through February are preferred.” It adds that “Late fall is good for ever-blooming types since there may be a few blossoms remaining to help identify them.” The UC handout says “Rose cuttings may be made at various times during the year.” Most of its own cuttings came from winter pruning time, mid-January to mid-February. The University of Washington library answer, which quotes a book by John Fisher, goes earlier: “According to Fisher, cuttings can be taken as early as August.”

Outside that window, the sources do not say how the odds change, so check the timing against your own climate.

Make the cut

The sources give different stem lengths. The Alabama column says that “Cuttings should be 6-8 inches long, and removed at a 45 degree angle from the parent plant.” The NC State article gives the same range: “Take a cutting from the growing tip that is 6 to 8 inches long.” The UC handout is shorter, with the instruction “Cut the stem to four to six inches in length”. The UW answer describes a longer stick: “The cutting should be about 9 inches long with 2 leaf joints in the top 3 inches.”

The UW answer also says to “Make a clean cut just below a leaf joint.” Use sharp pruners or a knife, and keep the tool clean. Next, remove the spent flowers. The NC State article says to “Remove the flower heads or hips down to the first set of leaves.” It then says to “Remove the leaves on the lower portion of the cutting but keep the upper leaves.” That leaves foliage on the top of the cutting.

Cut early in the day if you can. The NC State article says that “The best time of day to take a cutting is in the early morning before the sun hits the plant.” Once cut, keep the stem from drying. The same article says “Take care not to let your cuttings dry out before sticking them.” The Alabama column warns that “If cuttings dry out or are exposed to extremes of heat or cold, success rates nose-dive.”

Decide on rooting hormone

This is the step where the sources argue. The NC State article is direct: “Using a rooting hormone will increase your chances of successful propagation.” The Alabama column is more cautious. It says that “a rooting hormone is considered by some to be very important to success rates.” It also notes that other growers see it as a non-essential expense.

If you use one, the sources describe similar steps. The NC State article suggests scraping the bark first: “Scar the bottom inch of your cutting by scraping the cambium and then dip it into the rooting hormone.” The UC handout says to “Dip the angled end of the stem in water and then into rooting hormone”, then to “shake off the excess hormone” before planting. The UW answer describes moistening the bottom end and dipping it “in rooting hormone (or willow water).” The Alabama column also says to “follow instructions to make the most of the product”, so read the label on whatever you buy.

Choose the spot and the medium

The Alabama column is the most detailed on soil. It describes “well-drained, sandy soil that stays moist”, and it says that “The sandy soil should be amended with 1/4 to 1/3 peat moss, composted pine bark, or other organic material”. The UW answer, quoting Fisher, uses a heavier mix: “The soil should be a mix of loam and sand mixed down to a depth of about 9 inches, in a pot or V-shaped trench.” If you are starting in a pot, the NC State article suggests “Use a small pot with good potting soil loosely packed and moist for sticking your cutting.”

Light matters as much as soil. The Alabama column explains that “Although roses prefer sunny locations, for rooting purposes they appreciate protection from the afternoon sun,” and that “Bright but indirect light is preferred.” The NC State article puts it the same way: “Make sure that pots are located in bright light but not direct sunshine.” For a spot in the ground, the Alabama column recommends “a bed next to a building that faces north or east.”

Insert the cutting to the right depth. The UC handout says to “insert about one-half the length of the stem into potting soil and water well”, and the Alabama column agrees, saying to “place the cutting about half its length into the rooting media.” Firm the soil around the stem after you plant it. The Alabama column also suggests you “use a permanent marker to record variety” and the date, so you can tell later how long the cutting has been in place.

Keep the cuttings humid, moist and shaded

Humidity keeps the leaves from drying out before roots form. The NC State article says that “it is important to cover the entire pot with a bag to retain humidity and moisture while roots are being grown.” The Alabama column describes a simpler setup: a “clear quart-sized mason jar or a 2-liter plastic bottle with bottom cut off” set over a cutting stuck “a couple inches deep” in soil and kept “out of direct sunlight”. Whichever cover you use, lift it for a short time each day so the air does not stay stale.

Watering needs a light touch. The NC State article says to “Lightly mist the plants once a day and make sure to water enough to keep the soil moist.” The UC handout is more specific about the balance: “Keep moist but not wet.” The Alabama column says that “Soil around the cutting should be firmed up and watered thoroughly” at planting.

Winter care and the first season

Rooted cuttings need more time than a single season suggests. The NC State article says that “If using pots, grow the cuttings out for the entire season before planting in beds the following fall.” The UC handout says that “After growth begins in the spring, the cuttings may be placed into individual 5- or 6-inch pots or planted directly into the garden.” Keep the young plants protected in winter. The NC State article says to “Be sure to protect your new plants from wind damage throughout the winter”, and the UW answer adds that “If you need to protect it from frost, cover it with leaves or sacking during the winter.”

Set your expectations for the first years. The UC handout says that “It may take 2-3 years for the plants to grow into multi-caned specimens.” It also says that “All canes will produce blooms identical to those of the mother plant.” If you plan to plant the new rose outdoors in fall, our guide to preparing raised beds for winter covers the bed side of that job. If you want to grow the new rose in a container first, our raised bed soil mix guide covers the medium.

How the sources compare

The table lists only what each source states. Where a page says nothing on a point, the cell says so.

Point	NC State Extension	UC Cooperative Extension	Alabama Extension column	UW library answer
Best window	November through February	Winter pruning time, mid-January to mid-February	November through February for most varieties	As early as August, per Fisher
Stem length	6 to 8 inches	4 to 6 inches	6 to 8 inches	About 9 inches
Rooting hormone	Said to increase chances	Dip the cut end	Some growers see it as very important, others as optional	Dip in rooting hormone or willow water
Medium	Small pot of good potting soil, or a sunny outdoor spot	Potting soil; garden soil also used	Well-drained sandy soil amended with peat moss or composted pine bark	Loam and sand mix, about 9 inches deep
Rooting rate	Not stated	Not stated as a general rate	A 50-75% rooting rate is normal	Not stated

Common mistakes

Letting the cuttings dry out between cutting and sticking them.
Leaving the spent flowers or the lower leaves on the stem.
Setting the cutting in direct sunshine under a cover, which the NC State article advises against.
Keeping the soil soggy instead of moist but not wet.
Starting only one cutting per variety, when the UC handout says not all will root.

How we chose

This guide draws only on what the four pages we opened on 2026-10-22 state in plain words. We kept a step when at least one page states it directly, and we marked a point as contested when two or more pages give different figures. Timing, stem length and rooting hormone are contested, so the table shows each source’s figure rather than picking one. We did not rank the sources against each other. One Oregon State University Extension item we opened was a class announcement with no propagation steps, so we left it out.

What we could not verify

The sources do not agree on the best month or the best stem length, and that gap is the main thing this guide cannot close. The 9-inch cutting in the UW answer comes from a book, and we did not open that book. Each source also writes for its own region, so a timing that works in one climate may not suit another.

What the sources do not say

The sources do not give a rooting rate for each variety. The Alabama column gives a general figure, and the UC handout reports 60 to 70 percent success for its own cuttings inserted directly into garden soil, but neither separates hybrid teas from other roses. The UC handout also warns that cuttings may be less vigorous and less disease resistant than grafted plants, without giving a figure.

The sources do not give a date for when roots appear. The UW answer says that “By summer, it should have formed a root” for the Fisher method, and no other page gives a timetable. The sources also do not say how deep the mason jar should sit, or how often a covered cutting needs airing. They do not set a watering schedule for cold weather, and they do not say how to tell a rooted cutting from one that has only leafed out.

Frequently asked questions

Can I root a rose cutting in water?

The pages we opened describe moist soil or potting mix, not water. The NC State article says to use “a small pot with good potting soil” for starting cuttings, and the UC handout plants its cuttings in potting soil or garden soil. None of the sources covers water rooting, so this guide does not recommend it.

How long should a rose cutting be?

The sources differ. The Alabama column and the NC State article both say 6 to 8 inches, the UC handout says four to six inches, and the UW answer says about 9 inches. Pick a length in that range, and keep the top foliage while removing the lower leaves, as the NC State article describes.

Do I need rooting hormone?

The sources do not agree. The NC State article says rooting hormone will increase your chances, while the Alabama column says some growers see it as optional. If you use one, follow the product instructions, as the Alabama column advises.

When is the best time to take rose cuttings?

Most of the sources point to late fall through winter. The NC State article names November through February as the best window, and the Alabama column agrees for most varieties. The Alabama column also says late fall suits ever-blooming types. The UW answer, which quotes Fisher, says cuttings can be taken as early as August.

Will a rooted cutting look like the parent rose?

The UC handout says the blooms will match the mother plant. It adds a caution: “Plants grown from cuttings, particularly hybrid teas, are less disease resistant, may not be as vigorous, and may not live as long as grafted or budded plants.” Plan on the 2-3 years that handout gives for a multi-caned plant.

Bottom line

Take a healthy stem of about 6 to 8 inches, keep it moist and humid in bright shade, and start more cuttings than you need.

Sources

https://beaufort.ces.ncsu.edu/2024/01/how-do-i-propagate-roses-from-clippings (opened 2026-10-22)
https://www.ccfruitandnuts.ucanr.edu/sites/default/files/2010-07/23469.pdf (opened 2026-10-22)
https://newsaegis.com/2011/08/10/your-extension-corner-propagating-favorite-roses-without-all-the-fuss (opened 2026-10-22)
https://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/pal/propagating-roses-from-cuttings (opened 2026-10-22)