How to Care for a Camellia

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Knowing how to care for a camellia comes down to five things: the right light, acidic and well-drained soil, planting at the correct depth, steady water, and pruning at the right season. The three extension pages we opened agree on most of these points. Their differences mostly follow climate, and the sections below mark where they part ways. The UF publication calls camellias long-lived, and the NC State page says the flowers can last three to six weeks.

Quick answer

Give the plant partial shade with protection from harsh afternoon sun. Sasanqua types tolerate more sun than japonica types.
Plant from November to February if you can, with the root ball 1 to 2 inches above the soil line.
Mulch 2 to 3 inches deep without piling it over the root ball, and water about 1 inch every 10 to 14 days in dry spells.
Feed once or twice a year, and prune in late winter or very early spring, after blooming.

Choose a site with the right light

Light is the first decision. The UF publication says that “Camellia japonica performs best in partially shaded locations; sasanqua camellias tolerate full sun but do best when protected from harsh afternoon sun.” The NC State Extension page for Lee County is close to that advice: “They prefer acidic, well-drained soil located in semi-shade with protection from afternoon sun.” The UC Statewide IPM Program page is broader: “Camellias grow best with partial to full shade.”

Those three lines leave one thing for you to judge, which is how the spot gets sun from morning to afternoon. A location with morning sun and shade after midday fits the advice on all three pages. A camellia planted in a full-sun bed with no shade in the afternoon falls outside what the UF and NC State pages describe.

Wind matters too. The UF publication says that “Camellias are cold hardy but should be protected from cold winds.” Choose a spot with some shelter from cold winds, while keeping the light rules above in mind.

Build the soil

The UF publication sets the soil target: “Camellias prefer fertile, well-drained soils high in organic matter with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5.” The UC page uses similar words: “Camellias do best in fast draining, slightly acidic soils with high organic matter content.” Both point to soil that drains well and holds organic matter, with a slightly acid reaction.

If your soil is very sandy, the UF publication gives a specific fix: “Very sandy soils should be amended by mixing 3-6 inches of organic matter into the top 12 inches of soil.” It adds that “The entire planting bed, rather than individual planting holes, should be amended if possible.” Amending the whole bed is the better choice when you can do it.

If the soil is alkaline, the UF publication links a common warning sign to it: “Camellias growing on alkaline pH soils often appear chlorotic (yellow) because of deficiencies in micronutrients like iron, manganese, and zinc.” Checking the pH before you plant tells you whether the soil fits the 5.0 to 6.5 range. Our guide to pH and nutrient kits for the garden explains the options you can use to check.

Plant at the right depth and time

The UF publication says camellias are “best planted from November to February so the roots can become established before the heat of summer.” Late spring or summer planting is possible with extra care, but the window in fall and winter gives roots time to settle before the heat arrives.

Depth is the detail most likely to go wrong. The UF publication states that “When planted, the root ball should be 1-2 inches above the soil line to allow for sinking.” It also says flatly that “Camellias cannot tolerate being planted too deeply.” Dig a hole that is wide rather than deep: the UF publication describes a “planting hole should be two to three times wider and slightly shallower than the root ball.”

Space the plants with room to grow. The UF publication says that “Plants should be spaced according to their mature size and rate of growth, usually at least 5 feet apart.” The NC State page makes the same point from the root side: “Allow a good amount of space as they are shallow-rooted and slow growing.”

If space is short, the UF publication offers a container option: “Another option is to grow camellias in large containers.” It does not give a container size, so the sources leave that choice to you. The UF publication restricts one fertilizer to plants in the ground, which we cover below.

Mulch and water on a steady schedule

Mulch comes first. The UF publication says to “Add and maintain a 2-3-inch layer of mulch to insulate the root system and conserve moisture in the root zone.” The NC State page is shorter: “Mulch well and provide plenty of water.” The UF publication also gives a rule that many gardeners miss: “Avoid placing mulch over the root ball to allow for air exchange.”

The UF water rule is the most specific figure in the three pages. It reads: “Camellias are fairly drought tolerant but need irrigation during extended dry periods; 1 inch of water should be applied every 10 days to 2 weeks.” During flowering, the UF publication asks for more: “Camellias also need 1 inch of water per week during flowering.” If you want to check the root zone before you water, our guide to soil moisture meters for the garden covers the tools for that job.

The other side of the rule matters just as much. The UF publication warns that “They are sensitive to overwatering and succumb to root rot when kept too wet.” The UC page reminds readers that the region sets the schedule: “In cooler climates camellias can survive on available rainfall; in other areas, summer irrigation is required.”

Feed once or twice a year

Camellias do not need much feeding. The UF publication says that “One or two applications a year should be adequate.” It describes the fertilizer to choose: “Use a fertilizer containing equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium (the first and third numbers on the fertilizer tag) and low phosphorus (the middle number).” The rate is given per area: “The rate should be about half a pound of 12-4-12 or 15-5-15 (or similar fertilizer) per 100 square feet of planting area in spring and/or early summer.”

Timing is the detail to get right. The UF publication warns that “Late summer or fall fertilization may cause tender growth, which may be injured by early cold periods.” Water the plant before and after feeding, as the same publication advises. The NC State page gives a different frame: “A split application of fertilizer containing ten to sixteen percent nitrogen is recommended in spring.” The two pages agree on spring, and they differ on the number of applications and the nitrogen range.

The UF publication also says that “However, camellias growing on a suitable site perform well with significantly less fertilizer.” A plant that is growing well in good soil may need less feeding than the rate suggests. Look at the plant before you add more.

Prune after bloom

Pruning is rarely the main job. The UF publication says that “Camellias typically need minimal pruning.” When you do need to shape the plant, the timing is the key decision. The UF publication says that “Necessary grooming and shaping should be done in late winter or very early spring after blooming.” It also says “Pruning in late summer or fall removes flower buds.” A cut at the wrong time costs the next season’s flowers.

The sources do not say how much to remove in one session, so this guide gives no percentage. The UF publication treats shaping as part of late winter or early spring work, not as a summer task.

Expect the bloom season

Bloom timing depends on the type you buy. The UF publication says that sasanqua types “bloom the earliest (October-December), followed by Camellia japonica types (December-March).” The NC State page adds that “They flower anywhere from three to six weeks.” To keep color through the season, the same page suggests planting different varieties: “Planting different varieties throughout the landscape can help ensure a succession of color from September through May.”

The UF publication also notes that camellias are fall and winter bloomers, when few other plants flower, which is one reason gardeners plant them. Choose the variety by its bloom window first, and then by size and shape.

How the sources compare

The table lists only what each page states. Where a page is silent, the cell says so.

Point	UF/IFAS CIR461 (Florida)	NC State, Lee County (2021)	UC Statewide IPM (California)
Light	Japonica in partial shade; sasanqua tolerates full sun, protected from harsh afternoon sun	Semi-shade with protection from afternoon sun	Partial to full shade
Soil	Well-drained, high in organic matter, pH 5.0 to 6.5	Acidic and well-drained	Fast draining, slightly acidic, high in organic matter
Planting window	November to February	Not stated	Not stated
Water	1 inch every 10 days to 2 weeks; 1 inch per week in flowering	Plenty of water, with mulch	Summer irrigation outside cooler climates
Feeding	One or two applications a year	Split spring application, 10 to 16 percent nitrogen	Not stated
Pruning	Late winter or very early spring, after blooming	Not stated	Not stated
Bloom	Sasanqua October to December; japonica December to March	Three to six weeks per flower	Not stated

Common mistakes

Planting too deep, which the UF publication says camellias cannot tolerate.
Piling mulch over the root ball instead of keeping it in a ring around the plant.
Keeping the root zone wet, which the UF publication links to root rot.
Feeding in late summer or fall, which can cause tender growth that cold may injure.
Pruning in late summer or fall, which removes the flower buds.
Leaving the plant in harsh afternoon sun.

How we chose

This guide draws on the three pages we opened on 2026-10-22: the UF/IFAS publication CIR461, the NC State Lee County article from October 2021, and the UC Statewide IPM Program page. We kept a point when at least one page states it directly, and we show the figures side by side where the pages differ. We left out an Alabama publication on camellia culture, because its PDF returned HTTP 200 but could not be read. A UC Master Gardener newsletter returned 404, and the UF archival copy repeats the same text, so it counts once. The three pages come from three different climates, and we did not rank them against each other.

What we could not verify

The three pages do not give the same advice for every climate. The UF publication is written for Florida, the NC State article is written for Lee County in North Carolina, and the UC page is written for California. A rule that works in one of them may need adjusting where you live, and the sources do not say how to adjust it.

What the sources do not say

The sources do not give a watering schedule for a camellia grown in a container, and they do not give a container size. The UF publication names large containers without a number, and it says the acid-forming fertilizer is for plants in the ground only.

The sources do not say how long a newly planted camellia takes to settle in, or how quickly it will grow in a particular garden. The UF publication says camellias grow slowly, and the NC State page says they are shallow-rooted and slow growing, but neither gives a timetable.

The UC page lists many pests and diseases. We have left out treatment advice for them, because the pages we opened do not give a treatment that fits this guide, and the UC list is a diagnostic reference rather than a care guide. The sources also do not give a fix for yellow leaves beyond the soil pH and nutrient points above.

Frequently asked questions

Can I grow a camellia in a pot?

Yes, according to the UF publication, which lists growing in large containers as an option. It does not give a container size or a potting mix. The same publication says the acid-forming azalea and camellia fertilizer should be used only on camellias established in the landscape, not on young or containerized plants, so do not use that product on a potted plant.

How much sun does a camellia need?

It depends on the type. The UF publication says japonica types perform best in partially shaded locations, while sasanqua types tolerate full sun but do best with protection from harsh afternoon sun. The NC State page says semi-shade with protection from afternoon sun, and the UC page says partial to full shade. A spot with morning sun and afternoon shade fits all three.

Why are the leaves yellow?

The UF publication links yellow leaves to alkaline soil, which can cause deficiencies in micronutrients such as iron, manganese and zinc. It also names magnesium deficiency as the most common nutritional deficiency on camellia shrubs in Florida. Start by checking the soil pH, since the pages we opened do not give a fix beyond that.

How often should I water a camellia?

The UF publication gives a starting point: 1 inch of water every 10 days to 2 weeks in extended dry periods, and 1 inch per week during flowering. Do not keep the soil wet, since the same publication warns about root rot. In cooler climates, rainfall may be enough, according to the UC page.

When should I prune a camellia?

Prune in late winter or very early spring, after the plant has finished blooming, according to the UF publication. Pruning in late summer or fall removes flower buds, so save that work for the right season. The UF publication says camellias typically need minimal pruning, so most plants need only light shaping.

Bottom line

Give a camellia partial shade, acidic well-drained soil, a mulch ring kept off the root ball, steady water, and pruning after bloom.

Sources

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP002/pdf (opened 2026-10-22)
https://lee.ces.ncsu.edu/2021/10/camellias-in-the-landscape (opened 2026-10-22)
https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/camellia.html (opened 2026-10-22)