How to Store Potatoes

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How to store potatoes starts before the harvest is finished. The crop needs mature tubers with firm skins, a short cure in warm and humid air, and then a cool, humid, dark place where it stays until you cook it. Extension guides from Iowa State, Oregon State, South Dakota State, the University of Wisconsin and North Carolina State give those steps, and their settings do not match on every point. This guide sets out the steps in order and marks where the sources differ.

Quick answer

Harvest after the vines die back and the skin no longer rubs off, and avoid bruising the tubers.
Cure the tubers in warm, humid, ventilated air for about one to two weeks. Iowa State gives two weeks at 50 to 60 degrees F and 85 to 90 percent humidity.
Hold cured potatoes in the dark at about 40 degrees F with high humidity, and keep them away from apples and other fruit.
Sort out soft, shriveled, cut or diseased tubers first, because the sources say damaged potatoes store poorly and can spread decay.

Harvest mature tubers, not early ones

The maturity check comes first. The Iowa State growing guide says potatoes grown for storage should be harvested after the vines have died and the crop is mature. Its test is simple: dig up one or two hills after the plants have died. If the skin is thin and rubs off easily, the potatoes are not fully mature and will not store well. Oregon State gives the same check and a timing rule: if the skin rubs off easily, wait another week before harvesting.

Oregon State also advises cutting back on water before harvest. It says to reduce watering in mid-August and allow the vines to die back completely before harvesting. South Dakota State describes a short hold in the ground: leaving potatoes in the soil for a week or two after the tops die helps the tubers set their skins, so they store longer. It adds that cutting off the vines a few days before harvest can help with that process.

Handling matters as much as timing. The Iowa State guide says to avoid bruising, skinning or cutting the tubers when you dig them, and that damaged potatoes should be used as soon as possible. Damaged tubers are the first to leave the storage batch, and the sorting section below covers them.

Clean lightly and dry completely

The sources disagree on washing, so the first step is to look at your soil. Oregon State says that if your soil is coarse and sandy, you should gently brush off the soil. In fine, sticky clay soil, you may need to rinse the tubers. South Dakota State says that roots with a bit of dirt on them do not need washing, and that muddy roots can be gently washed. The University of Wisconsin deck goes the other way: it says do not wash potatoes, onions, sweet potatoes or garlic before storage, and to leave a fine layer of soil on potatoes.

Oregon State and South Dakota State agree on one point. Oregon State says to ensure potatoes are completely dry before storing, and South Dakota State says to air-dry them so they are slightly damp at most, not wet, because storage rots can set in on wet tubers. Oregon State also says to minimize exposure to light during the cleaning process.

Cure the tubers before the cold

Curing is the step that most storage guides treat as separate from cold storage. Iowa State explains the purpose: the curing period allows minor cuts and bruises to heal, and the skin thickens during the process. Oregon State says curing helps extend storage life. Each source gives its own settings, and the four settings below cover the ranges the sources name.

Iowa State: two weeks at 50 to 60 degrees F and 85 to 90 percent humidity.
Oregon State: 7 to 10 days in a dark, well-ventilated space with moderate temperatures and high humidity.
University of Wisconsin: cure late-crop potatoes 1 to 2 weeks in moist, warm air at 60 to 75 degrees F.
South Dakota State: a few days to two weeks in a dark but well-ventilated area at 60 to 68 degrees F.

Hold the cured crop at about 40 degrees F

After the cure, the sources move the crop to a colder, humid storage. Iowa State says that once cured, potatoes should be stored at 40 degrees Fahrenheit and a relative humidity of 90 to 95 percent. Oregon State says to gradually lower the storage temperature to 40 to 46 degrees F for table use. South Dakota State says the tubers keep best at 40 to 50 degrees F in relatively high humidity, and the University of Wisconsin deck says place cured potatoes at 40 to 45 degrees F. The North Carolina State guide gives a longer range for late-maturing potatoes: cool, 40 to 50 degrees F, and moist, at 90 percent relative humidity.

Humidity is the reason for the bag. Oregon State says that because tubers are about 80 percent water, high humidity is essential to prevent shriveling. It recommends perforated plastic bags or well-ventilated containers to maintain humidity. Iowa State makes the same suggestion for home storage, and it lists possible spots in the house: an extra refrigerator set a few degrees warmer than normal, an unheated spare room, a cool basement, or an insulated garage. The University of Wisconsin deck adds two cautions. Check to make sure moisture does not build up, and allow for air flow by not sealing the bag tightly.

Freezing is a separate risk. Iowa State says do not allow potatoes to freeze, and the University of Wisconsin deck says to keep produce from freezing.

Settle the refrigerator question

Refrigerators are where the sources diverge most sharply. Oregon State lists refrigerators set to 40 to 46 degrees F among the suitable storage areas. Iowa State lists an extra refrigerator set a few degrees warmer than normal. South Dakota State says the opposite: do not refrigerate potatoes, because they will convert their starch to sugar. A cold refrigerator is the setting that sugar warning points at, and the temperature sections below show why the number matters.

Keep the tubers dark

Light is a storage problem as well as a cooking problem. Iowa State says to store the crop in a dark location, because potatoes turn green when exposed to light. Oregon State explains the color change: exposure to light can cause greening, which makes tubers unfit for consumption. The green color comes from chlorophyll, which is harmless, but it often signals the presence of solanine, which Oregon State calls a toxic compound. Its advice is to discard any potatoes with excessive greening.

Keep potatoes apart from apples and tomatoes

Ethylene is the other storage hazard. Iowa State says not to store potatoes with apples or other fruit, and it gives the reason: ripening fruit gives off ethylene gas, which promotes sprouting of tubers. South Dakota State names apples and tomatoes specifically and says the ethylene given off by them may cause the potatoes to sprout. Keep the potato bin away from apples, other fruit and tomatoes.

Sort the batch and remove the weak tubers

Sorting happens at two points. Oregon State says to sort and discard any injured or diseased tubers before long-term storage. It adds that potatoes with cuts, bad spots or signs of disease should be used within the first month, because damaged tubers do not store well and may spread decay. Iowa State adds a sorting step after the cure: discard any soft or shriveled tubers, because they may spoil in storage and cause other potatoes to spoil.

Iowa State puts its second sort after the cure, when the skins have thickened and the minor cuts and bruises have had time to heal. At that point the guide says to discard any soft or shriveled tubers.

Warm and cold storage each cause a different problem

The storage temperature has two failure points, and the sources name both. Warm storage causes sprouting and shriveling. Iowa State says that if storage temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the tubers may begin to sprout in two or three months. Oregon State gives the warm-side limit at 46 degrees F: at temperatures above 46 degrees, expect storage life to drop to two to three months, with some risk of sprouting and shriveling. Its wording on high temperatures adds decay to the list.

Cold storage causes sweetening. Iowa State’s FAQ says that when potatoes are stored below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, they develop a sugary, sweet taste. Its growing guide uses 38 degrees F for the same warning, so the one university gives two thresholds. Oregon State gives 38 degrees F as the line to avoid, and warns that tubers stored at low temperatures may produce darker, oilier fried products. The sweetness can be reversed, according to Iowa State: placing the potatoes at room temperature for a few days before use restores their natural flavor.

The sources do not say how sweet is too sweet for the table, so this guide does not set a limit.

Choose the batch you expect to keep

Variety shapes how long a crop lasts, and the sources agree on the basic pattern. Oregon State says red potatoes and thin-skinned types generally have shorter storage life than thick-skinned varieties like russets. It also says late-maturing varieties typically store better than early types. Its estimate for late-season potatoes in good condition is seven to eight months with proper storage.

The other guides give different ranges. The University of Wisconsin deck gives two to nine months for potatoes once they are cured and held at 40 to 45 degrees F. The North Carolina State guide says late-maturing potatoes can last six to eight months in cool, moist conditions. The Iowa State growing guide does not give a total time, only the two- to three-month sprouting window for warm storage.

Mistakes to avoid

Skipping the cure. Iowa State says the curing period lets minor cuts and bruises heal and thickens the skin.
Leaving tubers in the light. Oregon State and South Dakota State both tie light exposure to greening and solanine.
Storing with apples or tomatoes. Iowa State and South Dakota State both name ethylene as the cause of sprouting.
Letting the bin run too cold. Oregon State says to avoid temperatures below 38 degrees F, and Iowa State says below 40 degrees F causes sweetening.
Sealing the bag. The University of Wisconsin deck says not to seal the bag tightly, and Iowa State recommends perforated bags.
Storing wet tubers. South Dakota State says storage rots can set in on wet tubers.

When the vines are gone and the beds are empty, see our guide to preparing raised beds for winter. For the next crop, our list of easiest vegetables to grow in raised beds is a good starting point.

Frequently asked questions

How long do potatoes keep in storage?

It depends on the variety, the cure and the temperature. Oregon State says late-season potatoes can stay in good condition for seven to eight months with proper storage. The University of Wisconsin deck gives two to nine months at 40 to 45 degrees F after curing, and the North Carolina State guide gives six to eight months in cool, moist conditions.

Why did my stored potatoes turn green?

Light caused it. Iowa State and South Dakota State both say to keep the crop dark because potatoes turn green when exposed to light. Oregon State says the green color often signals solanine, a toxic compound, and it advises discarding potatoes with excessive greening.

Can potatoes go in the refrigerator?

The sources disagree. Oregon State lists refrigerators set to 40 to 46 degrees F as a suitable area, and Iowa State lists an extra refrigerator set a few degrees warmer than normal. South Dakota State says not to refrigerate potatoes, because they will convert their starch to sugar.

Should potatoes be washed before storing?

Only if they need it. Oregon State says rinse tubers from fine, sticky clay soil and brush off coarse sandy soil. South Dakota State says muddy roots can be gently washed. The University of Wisconsin deck says not to wash potatoes before storage, and to leave a fine layer of soil on them. Oregon State and South Dakota State both want the tubers dry before storage.

Why do stored potatoes taste sweet?

Cold storage causes it. Iowa State’s FAQ says potatoes stored below 40 degrees Fahrenheit develop a sugary, sweet taste, and its growing guide uses 38 degrees F. Oregon State gives 38 degrees F as the line to avoid. Iowa State says placing the potatoes at room temperature for a few days before use restores their natural flavor.

Bottom line

Harvest mature tubers with firm skins, cure them for one to two weeks in warm, humid air, then hold them near 40 degrees F in the dark with high humidity and apart from apples and tomatoes. Sort out any soft, shriveled or damaged tubers before they go into the long-term bin.

What we could not verify

We opened six pages on 2026-10-22: the Iowa State FAQ on storing potatoes, the Iowa State growing guide for home gardens, the Oregon State news article on harvesting and storing homegrown potatoes, the South Dakota State guide on harvesting and storing root vegetables, a University of Wisconsin-Extension presentation on storing garden produce, and the North Carolina State news article on homegrown potatoes. We did not check any storage container, humidity meter or refrigerator model, and this guide does not recommend one.

What the sources do not say

The sources do not give a single set of storage conditions for every variety, and none of them explains how a home gardener should measure humidity in an unheated space. The University of Wisconsin presentation dates from 2014, and parts of its potato table are hard to read in the text we opened, so this guide relies on its written bullets and not its table figures.
The pages do not say how to store potatoes that have already been cut or peeled, and they do not give a shelf life for a crop that was not cured.

How we chose

We chose the storage steps that at least one of the six pages states in plain words, and we show the figures side by side wherever the pages give different numbers. We counted a claim as covered only if it appeared on the opened page. We left out search snippets, commercial sites and any page we could not open.

Sources

https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/faq/how-should-i-store-potatoes (opened 2026-10-22)
https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-potatoes-home-garden (opened 2026-10-22)
https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/best-practices-harvesting-storing-homegrown-potatoes (opened 2026-10-22)
https://extension.sdstate.edu/harvesting-and-storing-root-vegetables (opened 2026-10-22)
https://oconto.extension.wisc.edu/files/2017/04/Storing-Fruits-and-Vegetables-2.pdf (opened 2026-10-22)
https://pamlico.ces.ncsu.edu/news/homegrown-potatoes-tips-for-a-successful-harvest/ (opened 2026-10-22)