How to Grow Pomegranate Tree

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How to grow pomegranate tree comes down to sun, drainage and steady water. Clemson Extension, the University of Nevada, Reno Extension and the University of Florida IFAS Extension describe different climates, but all three tie good results to well-drained soil. Nevada and Clemson both describe good drought tolerance, so the main hazards the guides name are wet roots, sudden watering swings and cold.

The sections below follow the path from site to harvest, and they mark where the guides disagree instead of picking a winner.

Quick answer

• Give it full sun and well-drained soil. Clemson says full sun gives the best results, and UF/IFAS ties good growth to well-drained soil rather than heavy or moist ground.
• Water evenly, with extra care in late summer while the fruit matures, because sudden changes lead to splitting.
• Prune in winter or early spring. Clemson suggests three to six main trunks, while Nevada prefers a single trunk if you want a tree shape.
• Pick fruit gently and store it cool. In southern Nevada, the picking window runs from late September into early December.

Give it sun, room and a suitable climate

Clemson’s advice on light is direct: “Plant in full sun for the best results, but it can tolerate some shade if fruit is not of concern.” Its note on fruiting adds that “full sun is needed for the tree to produce an abundance of fruit.” Plan for a site that gets full sun for most of the day, and accept less fruit if the spot is shadier.

Climate sets the rest. The UF/IFAS guide says “the best quality pomegranate fruit are produced in regions with cool winters and hot, dry summers (Mediterranean climate).” Nevada says the tree is well adapted to the hot, dry Southwest, and it warns that buds “are frost sensitive in the spring and again in the fall.” Clemson warns about winter cold: “Pomegranates can be susceptible to severe cold, which may damage or kill it to the ground if temperatures drop below ten degrees Fahrenheit.” UF/IFAS puts the danger line for dormant trees at about 12 degrees Fahrenheit, and it advises planting in early spring, “avoiding late frost.”

Clemson describes the tree itself as “a wonderful small, deciduous tree that grows between twelve and twenty feet tall.” Nevada gives a similar range: plants “can grow to 30 ft. but they more typically grow 12 to 16 ft. in height.” Plan the spot around that mature size.

Start from cuttings or a nursery tree

Nevada is clear on propagation: “Hardwood cuttings are the easiest and most satisfactory method of growing pomegranates.” The guide takes cuttings from the previous season’s wood while the plant is dormant, roots them in a light mix, and notes that “After cuttings are rooted (usually 8-16 weeks), they can be planted as individual landscaping shrubs or in rows eight to ten feet apart for fruit production or wind breaks.”

UF/IFAS adds a warning about seed. “Seed-propagated plants do not come true-to-type,” so a tree grown from seed may not match the fruit of its parent. In Florida, the guide says, hardwood cuttings should be taken in January or February, which is a regional timing, not a rule for every climate.

Set the spacing for the shape you want

Spacing depends on whether you want a hedge, an orchard row or a single dooryard tree. UF/IFAS gives 6 to 9 feet between plants for a hedge, and it gives 10 to 16 feet between plants and 13 to 20 feet between rows for orchards. It adds that “similar spacing should be maintained for dooryard trees.” Nevada’s rows for cuttings run eight to ten feet apart, as quoted above, and Clemson does not give a planting distance.

Because the three guides use different planting goals, compare the figures against your own goal rather than against each other. UF/IFAS notes that suckers fill spaces and produce a compact hedge, which is why the hedge figure is closer.

Soil and drainage come first

Soil decides how well the fruit sets. Nevada says “The pomegranate is well adapted to the hot, dry climate of the Southwest and grows in a wide range of soils.” It adds that the tree “does best in deep, well drained loam, but is also suitable for sandy or adobe-clay soils.” UF/IFAS says “Pomegranates produce best on deep, loams, but are adapted to many soil types from pure sand to heavy clay,” and it warns that “Yields are usually low on sands, while fruit color is poor on clays.”

High pH is the other limit. Nevada warns that “The plant tolerates mildly alkaline conditions and areas of slow drainage, but yield, fruit quality and tree growth are poor in soils with high pH or poor drainage.” UF/IFAS adds that “Growth on alkaline soils is poor.” Clemson’s simple step is to test the soil: “Be sure to fertilize based on a soil test for the best fruiting.”

Water evenly, especially late in the season

Nevada says “Pomegranates can tolerate long periods of drought once the plant is established.” It also says “good water management is important in order to produce large, desirable fruit.” The late-season rule is the sharpest one in the guides: “Avoid excessive water fluctuation during late summer while fruit is maturing or fruit will crack and split.”

UF/IFAS gives an interval and a different late-season tip. It suggests irrigating about every 7 to 10 days when rain is absent, and it says that during maturation “it is usually recommended to reduce the irrigation gradually in order to reduce splits.” That is not quite the same as Nevada’s advice to hold moisture steady while the fruit grows. The draft reports both and does not choose between them. Either way, the guides agree that “Sudden changes in irrigation amounts and timing often lead to fruit splitting, especially a few weeks before harvesting.”

Two tools help with the even-water goal. Clemson says to “mulch appropriately to reduce the water needs and prevent drying out between irrigation applications.” Nevada adds that “Utilizing a drip irrigation system can help maintain more consistent moisture control if sufficient emitters are spread widely around the tree.” To check soil moisture before each watering, see our guide to soil moisture meters for the garden. For a timer that keeps the schedule steady, see hose timers for the garden.

Feed lightly and keep fertilizer off the trunk

Nevada recommends a nitrogen and phosphate fertilizer “when planting and in March each year thereafter.” It adds “Do not apply it next to the trunk of the tree.” Excess nitrogen is the warning to remember. Nevada says that “Excessive or late applications of nitrogen may cause excessive vegetative growth, reduce fruit production and delay fruit maturity and color.”

UF/IFAS makes the same point from the fruit side. “Fruit drop is aggravated by practices favoring vegetative growth, such as over-fertilization and excess irrigation.” Clemson’s answer is the soil test, which keeps feeding tied to what the soil actually needs.

Train and prune in winter or early spring

Training is where the guides differ most. Clemson suggests “It is best to train the Pomegranate to grow with three to six main trunks.” Nevada says “If a tree-type plant is desired, then prune to a single trunk.” UF/IFAS describes commercial training as “allowing only a few or one trunk to develop,” and it describes three to five scaffold limbs built up over the first two years, with suckers removed as they appear.

Timing also differs slightly. Nevada says “Pruning should be done in the winter while the plants are dormant.” Clemson says “The best time to prune is late winter or early spring since it blooms on new growth.” Both windows fall in the cooler part of the year, so the guides overlap.

Keep the cuts modest. Nevada says “Light annual pruning encourages new wood and enhances fruit production,” and “Heavy pruning will reduce yields.” Clemson makes the same warning in plainer words: “Be sure not to prune too heavily as this will reduce the fruiting for the season.” Nevada’s list of cuts is simple: remove “all dead, broken or diseased material and interfering or crossing branches,” then shape the plant as you want it. UF/IFAS also notes that “Fruit bearing branches will bend or break unless fruit thinning is practiced or pruning is done in a way to reduce crop load.”

Pollination and flowering

Pollination is easier than it is for many fruit trees. UF/IFAS says “Pomegranate trees are self-pollinating.” Clemson recommends a second plant but does not require one: “It is recommended, but not necessary, to have at least two or more plants for cross-pollination.” It adds that cross-pollination “does help improve the number of fruits.” A second tree is therefore an option, not a rule.

The flowers are useful beyond the fruit. Clemson says the tree “starts to bloom if conditions are right in late May and may continue well into the fall.” Its bright red flowers “are highly attractive to a variety of pollinators, including the hummingbird.” Early on, UF/IFAS warns that young trees can drop a lot of fruit, and it gives the same advice that applies throughout: “Avoid putting young trees under stressful conditions.”

Keep fruit off the ground and watch for disease

UF/IFAS warns that “Fruit that touches the ground will rot or be damaged by pests.” Keeping the lowest fruit off the soil is the practical reading of that warning. The same guide names anthracnose as “The most destructive disease observed in Florida,” and says it can affect leaves, stems, flowers and fruit.

Clemson takes a calmer view of the tree overall: “Pomegranates generally have few major issues and tend to survive for many seasons producing fruit.” It adds that foliar and fruit diseases “can be kept under some control through proper sanitation and pruning practices.” The guides’ control advice is product- and region-specific, so this guide does not repeat it.

Harvest and store the fruit

Nevada gives a local harvest window: “In southern Nevada fruit can be picked from late September into early December.” UF/IFAS gives a different calendar for Florida: fruit grown in North Florida “mature from July to November but may produce year-round in South Florida.” Pick by your own region, and use the state guide that matches it.

Handle the fruit gently. Nevada says “Handle the fruit carefully! It bruises easily.” It also says that “Rain will increase splitting,” so pick split and cracked fruit as soon as you can: “The split and cracked fruit should be picked and used as soon as possible.”

For storage, Nevada says harvested fruit keeps best in a cool area, at about 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, while fruit held at 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit keeps for weeks or months when humidity is high, around 80 percent. Warmer or drier storage is a problem, because it “increases dehydration, causing the fruit skin to harden and shrink.”

How we chose

We chose three university and state extension publications that cover planting, spacing and care for pomegranate trees, and opened each one with curl on 2026-10-23. They are a Clemson Extension factsheet, a University of Nevada, Reno publication from 2004, and a University of Florida IFAS publication revised in 2018. Their regions differ, which is why the draft reports regional figures and avoids blending them. A second UF/IFAS fact sheet returned a 404 error and is not cited.

What we could not verify

What the sources do not say

None of the three guides says how many years a tree takes to bear fruit, and none gives a yield for a home tree. Cultivar advice is local. Nevada lists cultivars for its own area and says that “No local research on cultivars has been done in this area.” Clemson recommends the Russian cultivar series for South Carolina, and UF/IFAS says research on Florida cultivars “continues.” None of the three says which variety suits a yard outside its own region.

The guides also disagree on training, pruning timing and late-season water, and this guide reports those differences without settling them. Their dates run from 2004 to 2021, so some practical details may have changed. The sources give no cost figures, and they do not say whether any product or treatment is worth buying.

Frequently asked questions

Does a pomegranate need a second plant to fruit?

Not always. UF/IFAS says pomegranate trees are self-pollinating, so one tree can set fruit. Clemson recommends two or more plants for cross-pollination, which helps the fruit count, but it does not treat a second plant as required.

How cold can a pomegranate tree take?

The guides give slightly different limits. Clemson says cold may damage or kill the plant to the ground if temperatures drop below ten degrees Fahrenheit. Nevada says dormant trees can be severely injured below 12 degrees Fahrenheit, and UF/IFAS gives 12 degrees for dormant trees and notes that non-dormant trees can be damaged by higher temperatures.

Why did my pomegranate fruit split?

Splitting follows uneven water. Nevada says that “Avoid excessive water fluctuation during late summer while fruit is maturing or fruit will crack and split.” UF/IFAS adds that summer rain can be an issue in some parts of Florida, and that splitting is especially likely a few weeks before harvest.

When should a pomegranate tree be pruned?

Plan to prune in the cool part of the year. Clemson says the best time to prune is late winter or early spring, since the tree blooms on new growth. Nevada says to prune in winter while the plants are dormant. Keep the cuts modest in either case, because heavy pruning reduces yields.

Can a pomegranate be grown from seed?

You can, but the tree may not match its parent. UF/IFAS says that “Seed-propagated plants do not come true-to-type,” and Nevada calls hardwood cuttings the easiest and most satisfactory method. A nursery tree or a cutting gives you the variety you chose.

Sources

• Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home and Garden Information Center, “Pomegranates”: https://hgic.clemson.edu/pomegranates/ (opened 2026-10-23)
• University of Nevada, Reno Extension, “Growing Pomegranates in Southern Nevada” (FS-04-76): https://extension.unr.edu/publication.aspx?PubID=3809 (opened 2026-10-23)
• University of Florida IFAS Extension, “The Pomegranate” (HS44): https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/MG056/pdf (opened 2026-10-23)