How to Grow Peppers in the Ground
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How to grow peppers in the ground starts with warm soil. Peppers are heat-loving plants that need a long, frost-free season and plenty of sun, and the extension guides below agree that transplants are the usual route. They disagree on the exact soil temperature and seed-starting window, so this guide sets each figure side by side. Nothing here recommends a product.
Quick answer
- Start seed indoors about six to eight weeks before the plants go out, following the Nebraska and South Dakota guides, or eight to 10 weeks before the average frost-free date, per Maryland.
- Harden the transplants for about 10 days to two weeks before planting, moving them outdoors for short periods.
- Plant out once the soil has warmed and the frost risk is low. The four guides give different soil and night temperatures, so check the table below.
- Set plants 12 to 24 inches apart in the row, with rows about three feet apart, in full sun.
Start seed on a schedule that works backward
Begin by counting back from your planting date. The University of Maryland guide says to “start seed indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the average frost-free date”, and it notes that some types need 12 weeks. The Nebraska guide is shorter: it says to “sow the seeds six to eight weeks before the plants are to be set” in the garden. The South Dakota guide gives eight weeks, saying to “Start pepper seeds about 8 weeks before transplant”.
The Oregon State guide says that “Peppers are best started using transplants rather than direct seeding into the garden.” For most home gardeners that points toward transplants, either bought or grown indoors, rather than sowing outdoors. Whichever route you choose, count the weeks from the day you plan to set the plants out, not from the last frost date alone.
Harden the seedlings before they go out
Hardening is what lets a pepper survive the move. The Nebraska guide says “The hardening process should begin 10 days to two weeks before planting peppers” in the garden. It describes moving the plants outdoors to a shady spot out of the wind, then increasing their time in sunlight a little each day. It also advises reducing the watering so the plants slow down without wilting.
The South Dakota guide gives a similar method with a different emphasis. It says to “Reduce fertilizer and water a few days before transplanting” so the plants harden off and then gradually meet the sun. Both guides aim at the same result: a plant that can take the move without a setback.
Check the soil and night temperatures
The guides give different thresholds for planting out, and the difference matters. The Maryland guide says to “Set out transplants after the soil has thoroughly warmed in the spring”, and it warns that planting before the soil temperature reaches 65 degrees F. will leave plants that “just sit there.” The Nebraska guide asks for soil temperature above 55°F, a low risk of frost and hardened plants.
| Source | Planting threshold | Wording in the guide |
|---|---|---|
| University of Maryland | Soil at 65°F or warmer | “Planting before soil temperature reaches 65 degrees F.” |
| University of Nebraska | Soil above 55°F, low frost risk, hardened plants | “the soil temperature is above 55°F” |
| South Dakota State | Night temperatures above 45°F, after the chance of frost has passed | “nighttime temperatures stay above 45°F” |
| Oregon State (EC1227) | Soil warmed to at least 60°F, after the danger of frost is past | “Delay transplant until the danger of frost is past” |
The four figures are not interchangeable. The Oregon State guide pairs its soil figure with the end of frost danger, and Nebraska pairs its soil figure with low frost risk. The South Dakota guide relies on night temperatures instead. Wait until the conditions in the guide that matches your area are all met, rather than planting on the first warm week.
Transplant with care
Handling is where many transplants are lost. The Nebraska guide says to “hold the plant by one of the leaves”, since “Pressure on the stems can cause permanent damage to the seedling.” It also advises choosing sturdy transplants that are dark green and not yet in bloom, and it notes that plants in individual containers suffer the least shock at transplanting.
Set each plant a little deeper than it sat in its pot, especially if it has grown leggy. Do not top the plant at planting. The Nebraska guide says “Pepper plants should not be topped at transplanting time”, because topping removes the area of the first flower buds and delays the first fruit.
Space the plants and give them full sun
Spacing depends on the guide. The table below sets out the in-row figures from each source. The Maryland guide gives a range of 12 to 24 inches in the row and 30 to 36 inches between rows, while the South Dakota guide says “Pepper plants should be spaced 12-to-18 inches apart.” The Nebraska guide gives its own figure: “set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart.”
| Source | Spacing in the row | Spacing between rows |
|---|---|---|
| University of Maryland | 12 to 24 in | 30 to 36 in |
| University of Nebraska | 18 to 24 in | 3 ft |
| South Dakota State | 12 to 18 in | not stated |
Sun is the other fixed requirement. The Maryland guide says “Full sun requires direct light at least 6 hours/day” and prefers eight to 10 hours. The South Dakota guide says “Peppers need 8 hours of sun per day”, and the Nebraska guide says to “Plant pepper plants in full sun.” Plants in partial shade yield less, according to the Nebraska guide, so pick the sunniest spot in the yard.
Soil, fertilizer and water
Fertilizer is best split. The Oregon State guide says to “Work half of the recommended fertilizer amount into the top 4-6 inches of soil”, then fertilize again with the other half once the plants begin to flower. The Maryland guide says to “use starter fertilizer for transplants”, which covers the first weeks in the bed.
Too much nitrogen backfires. The Nebraska guide says “Excessive nitrogen fertilizer tends to force the plants to produce too much foliage” and too little fruit. If the soil is low in nutrients, the same guide gives a starting rate of two to three pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100 square feet at preparation time, and it shows example blends such as 5-10-10.
Water is equally important. The Nebraska guide says “Peppers need about 1 to 2 inches of water each week”, and it notes that the amount shifts with temperature, soil type, rainfall and mulch. Uneven moisture causes its own trouble: the Nebraska guide says blossom-end rot “usually results from an irregular or insufficient supply of moisture”, and the South Dakota guide says blossom end rot “is caused by uneven soil moisture.”
For the soil itself, the bed depth and mix matter for a crop that will stay in the ground all season. For a guide to how much soil a raised bed needs, see how much soil a raised bed garden needs.
Mulch and soil warmth
Mulch can warm the soil early or cool it later, depending on the type. The Nebraska guide says “These inorganic mulches increase soil temperatures and promote earlier growth and production.” It adds that organic mulch generally waits until “the soil temperature reaches 70° to 75°F”, so the bed is warm before the mulch goes down.
The Oregon State guide notes that black plastic mulch and floating row covers may be used to warm the soil early in the season. Organic mulch helps cool the soil later in summer, so the choice depends on the part of the season you are in.
Protect the fruit from the sun
Fruit can scald as well as the plant. The Nebraska guide says sunscald “is caused by exposure of the fruit to direct sunlight,” especially after foliage has shaded it. It adds that “Good foliage protects the fruit from direct sunlight.” Keeping the plant vigorous and well watered is the main protection the guide describes, and it gives no treatment for sunscald.
Rotate the bed
Peppers belong to a family that shares several common crops. The South Dakota guide says “Do not plant where related crops, such as tomatoes, eggplant, or potatoes” were grown the previous year. Rotate the bed so that a related crop does not go back in the same place the next season.
For other crops that share a bed well, see vegetables that grow well together in raised beds. Check the plan for the whole bed before you choose what goes where.
Harvest timing
Plan a long season. The Maryland guide gives “70-85 days from transplanting” for most sweet and hot types, and it notes that habanero types ripen 90 to 120 days from transplanting. The South Dakota guide says “Days to harvest range from 65 to 85 days.” The Oregon State guide adds that “Peppers mature slowly”, so a late start leaves little margin.
The Maryland guide says bell peppers may reach a mature green stage 70 to 80 days after transplanting and need another two to three weeks to fully ripen. Count that extra time into the plan, especially in a cool spring.
Pests and cutworms
The South Dakota guide describes cutworms, which chew stems at the soil line. It suggests that “placing cardboard collars around new transplants can help protect them.” This is a physical barrier rather than a treatment, and it is the only protection the guide suggests. This guide gives no pesticide or disease advice. For any control decision, read the label of the product you plan to use and check with your local extension office.
What we could not verify
The sources agree on the basic routine but differ on thresholds and spacing. The Maryland soil temperature of 65°F, the Nebraska figure of 55°F, and the South Dakota night figure of 45°F describe different conditions, so the guide reports all three. The Oregon State soil figure is the one to check against your own conditions.
What the sources do not say
The four pages do not give a planting depth for the transplant in the ground, and none gives a single fertilizer rate that fits every bed. The Nebraska rate is for low-nutrient soil and is written per 100 square feet, so it does not transfer directly to a row. The sources also differ on the seed-starting window, from six to eight weeks in Nebraska to eight to 10 weeks in Maryland, so the choice depends on your own planting date.
How we chose
The guide relies on four extension pages: the University of Maryland, the University of Nebraska, South Dakota State University and Oregon State University. All were opened with curl on 2026-10-23, and all returned HTTP 200. The Nebraska link redirected to the 2008 edition of the same publication, and the Oregon State PDF redirected to its current path. Two other extension pages returned 403 and were not used. The guide uses only what these pages state, and it names no products or varieties.
Frequently asked questions
When should you set pepper transplants in the ground?
Wait until the soil has warmed. The Maryland guide says planting before the soil reaches 65 degrees F. leaves plants stalled, and the Nebraska guide asks for soil above 55°F with low frost risk. The South Dakota guide uses night temperatures above 45°F, so wait until the conditions in the guide matching your area are all met.
How far apart should pepper plants be?
The guides differ. South Dakota suggests 12 to 18 inches apart in the row, Nebraska suggests 18 to 24 inches with rows three feet apart, and Maryland gives a range of 12 to 24 inches with 30 to 36 inches between rows. The only figure all three ranges share is 18 inches, which is a reasonable spacing to start from.
How many hours of sun do peppers need?
At least six hours of direct light, according to the Maryland guide, which prefers eight to 10 hours. The South Dakota guide says peppers need eight hours of sun per day, so aim for that in a sunny bed.
Why won’t my pepper plants grow in cool weather?
Cold soil holds them back. The Maryland guide says planting too early in cold soil leaves plants that “just sit there.” Wait for warmer soil, keep the plants hardened, and give them the sun and fertilizer described above.
Can you grow peppers where tomatoes grew last year?
The South Dakota guide advises against it, since tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes are related crops. Rotate the bed so a related crop does not go back where it grew the year before.
Sources
- https://extension.umd.edu/resource/growing-peppers-home-garden (opened 2026-10-23)
- https://extensionpubs.unl.edu/publication/g1879/html/view (opened 2026-10-23)
- https://extension.sdstate.edu/peppers-how-grow-it (opened 2026-10-23)
- https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/catalog/auto/EC1227.pdf (opened 2026-10-23)
