How to Grow Herbs in Pots

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Learning how to grow herbs in pots takes a few basic decisions: a container with drainage holes, a light potting mix, herbs that share the same needs, steady watering, and feeding that stays modest. Four university extension publications cover these points. They agree on most of them. Where they differ, mainly on how often to water, this article says so, so you can judge the difference for your own porch, deck or windowsill.

Quick answer

Use a container with drainage holes, at least 6 inches across, and deeper for herbs with taproots.
Fill it with a loose, well-drained potting mix, and keep the soil damp to the touch but not soggy.
Group herbs with similar needs: parsley, chives and oregano like more moisture than sage, rosemary and thyme.
Give most herbs at least six hours of direct sun, feed lightly, and harvest only the top growth.

Choose a pot that drains

The Kentucky State fact sheet sets a size floor: “Pots or containers should be at least 6 inches in diameter.” It adds that “Deeper pots will accommodate herbs with tap roots or larger root systems”, and that “About four plants will fit in a pot 10-12 inches in diameter.” Plan the container for the full-grown herb rather than for the seedling you buy. The UVM guide makes the same point, suggesting that you select a container for the mature plant so you do not need to repot it later.

Drainage matters more than most other choices. The Illinois page says that “Herbs can be grown in any type of container so long as it has drainage holes.” The Colorado State guide gives the same rule as one of its few basic rules: “plant in a pot with a hole in the bottom to allow for adequate drainage.” If a pot has no hole, the UVM guide says to drill one before planting, “if needed.”

Material is a matter of trade-offs. The UVM guide says that “clay may be more attractive, but plastic is lighter, making the pots easier to move”, and it adds that “Plastic also has better water retention.” Terra cotta needs one step before planting. The Kentucky State sheet advises soaking terra cotta pots for one to two days before adding soil, because the clay absorbs water. If you reuse a container, the UVM guide says to “always sanitize it first with a mix of 10 percent bleach and 90 percent water.” For a compact option that suits a small space, see DIY herb planters.

Use a light, well-drained potting mix

Illinois asks for “Use loose, well-drained potting mix.” The UVM guide recommends a mix labeled for container gardening, and it says to read the label, because some mixes include added nutrients while others are made to hold more water. It also says to replace the mix every growing season.

The planting steps differ slightly in the two guides. Kentucky State says to fill the pot “to within ½ inch of the top” and to moisten the soil before planting. If the mix contains a lot of peat, it recommends doing that the day before. UVM says to fill the container to half an inch to one inch below the rim, and then to finish by soaking the mix with water.

Pick herbs that share a pot

Illinois advises: “Select herbs that are small and slow growing.” Its list of suitable herbs includes variegated, purple and golden sage, parsley, Greek oregano, rosemary, marjoram, bush basil, thyme, chives and summer savory. The same page says that “Several kinds of herbs or a mixture of herbs and flowers can be planted in one container depending on its size.”

Colorado State gives the rule for mixing: “Consider planting several herbs together for maximum impact. Just make sure the combinations have similar water and light needs.” It groups the herbs by moisture. “Some herbs, like those from northern Europe, require more moisture than others. These herbs include parsley, chives, and oregano.” Its second group is dry-leaning: “Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary and thyme, require less moisture.” A pot of thyme, sage and tarragon, the guide suggests, can work as a kitchen container garden.

Containers are a practical way to keep mint in check. The Colorado State guide notes that “containers help corral mint that can spread aggressively in an open garden.” The guide does not place mint in either moisture group, so check its water needs against the rest of the pot before you combine them. For a balcony setup with several containers, see balcony planters.

Annual and perennial herbs need different plans. Illinois explains that “Annual herbs are grown for one season, harvested when flower buds develop, and the plants are discarded at the end of the season.” Its description of perennials is that they “grow year after year and can be brought indoors during winter.” Kentucky State adds that “Perennials will overwinter in some climates, but most should be brought indoors during the winter in Kentucky.”

Plant seeds or transplants

The Kentucky State steps are simple. Moisten the soil, follow the instructions on the seed packet, and then water in the seeds or plants. The sheet suggests planting a few extra seeds, and explains that “Extra seedlings can be removed once plants have germinated.”

For transplants, the same sheet gives a clear instruction: “If you are using plants, hollow out a space in the potting mix big enough to fit the roots of the plant.” Remove the plant from its original container, set it in the hole, and fill the mix back in around it. Then water it in, as the sheet’s last step says.

Water without drowning the roots

Watering is the point where the guides differ most. Kentucky State asks for a steady, modest level of moisture: “Water your containers on a regular basis to keep the soil damp to the touch but not soggy.” It also says to “Water the pot until it runs out the drainage holes or fills the water reservoir.” The UVM guide sets a stricter tone on soil drying out: “As to watering, the rule of thumb is not to let the soil dry out.” It recommends watering in the morning, near the base of the plant, until the water drains out the bottom.

UVM also warns about frequency. “Plants in containers may require daily and possibly even twice daily watering, but do not overwater.” Illinois gives a rule that fits this approach: “Apply water until it starts to drip from the drainage holes.” The Colorado State guide adds a reason to water thoroughly: enough water to drain out the bottom “for preventing salt build-up.” It also advises placing containers near a hose so the job is easy to repeat.

Illinois adds that “Water requirements vary from plant to plant.” The simplest way around that difference is the Colorado State advice to combine herbs with similar needs.

Give sun and feed lightly

Light comes first. The UVM guide puts the target at six hours, because most herbs “require a minimum of six hours per day of direct sunlight”. Choose the spot before you fill the pot, and check that it gets that much sun on an ordinary day.

Feeding should be modest. Illinois says it plainly: “Do not over fertilize herbs.” The UVM guide suggests a water-soluble fertilizer such as 10-20-10 and adds, “Be sure to follow all label directions carefully.” Kentucky State advises seed-grown containers to be fed three weeks after the plants have two sets of leaves, and it tells gardeners to “Follow the application recommendations of your fertilizer or plant food label.”

Pinch, trim and harvest

Illinois recommends pinching: “Pinch the plants during the growing season to keep them bushy and compact.” Dead leaves should come off too.

The harvest rule depends on the kind of herb. Illinois says to “Harvest by removing top leaves and stems with a sharp knife.” For annual leafy herbs, it says to “leave four to six inches of shoots on the plant for better re-growth.” Perennials need a lighter hand, and the guide says to harvest them less heavily, by “removing only the top third of the plant”. The same page says that leafy herbs are ready when the flower buds first appear, and that herbs “can be used fresh or dried.”

Bring tender herbs indoors for winter

Many herbs can come inside when the weather turns. Illinois says that “Herbs growing in containers can be moved indoors during winter but remember to acclimatize them in early fall.” Move them gradually, so they adjust to indoor temperature and light, and place them in the sunniest room you have. Illinois also says to water only when the soil is dry once the herbs are inside.

The UVM guide says that “At the end of the outdoor growing season, consider moving your herb containers inside as it might be possible to maintain them year-round.” It adds that this “works best if you have a sunny south-facing window.” The UVM guide names rosemary as an example of an herb moved inside this way, and Illinois also lists rosemary among suitable container herbs.

Mistakes to avoid

Using a pot without drainage holes, which the Illinois and Colorado State guides both name as the basic rule.
Overwatering, which the UVM guide warns against even when a pot needs daily watering.
Feeding too heavily, which Illinois warns against.
Letting mint share an open bed, since containers help keep it from spreading.
Pulling herbs into the house without moving them gradually first.
Leaving tender perennials outdoors in a climate where Kentucky State advises bringing them inside for the winter.

How we chose

The four sources in this article were opened on 2026-10-23: an Illinois Extension page on growing herbs in containers, a Kentucky State University Cooperative Extension fact sheet (2020), a Colorado State University Extension PlantTalk page (1081), and a University of Vermont Extension article by a Master Gardener intern (June 2023). Each is an extension publication. The article uses only claims those pages state, and each quoted sentence was checked against the fetched text. Where the pages disagree, mainly on watering, the article shows the difference. Other pages were tried but returned errors or did not load, so they are not cited.

What we could not verify

The four pages give rules of thumb rather than measured results. None of them tests one pot size, mix or watering schedule against another, so the advice here describes common practice rather than a controlled comparison. The lists of suitable herbs describe what each guide recommends, not how each herb performed in a trial.

What the sources do not say

None of the four sources gives a volume in gallons or liters for each herb, and none gives a fertilizer rate in pounds per container. None gives a watering schedule in days, so the frequency depends on the pot, the mix and the weather. The sources do not say how long a container herb should stay in one pot. Where a figure appears here, it belongs to the guide named beside it.

Frequently asked questions

Which herbs can share one pot?

Colorado State says to combine herbs only when they have similar water and light needs. Its example for a kitchen container is thyme, sage and tarragon. Its example for a scented pot is mint, scented geranium and lemon balm, although the guide notes that containers help control mint.

How often do herbs in a pot need water?

Kentucky State asks for soil that stays damp to the touch but not soggy, and says to water until the water runs out of the drainage holes. UVM says containers may need daily watering, and possibly twice a day, but warns against overwatering. Check the soil before each watering rather than following a calendar.

Is a clay pot or a plastic pot better for herbs?

The UVM guide says clay may look better, while plastic is lighter and holds water better. Terra cotta should be soaked for one to two days before planting, according to Kentucky State. Both materials need drainage holes, which the Illinois guide treats as the essential feature.

How big should a pot be for herbs?

Kentucky State says a pot should be at least 6 inches across and that deeper pots suit herbs with taproots. It estimates that about four plants fit in a pot 10 to 12 inches across. The UVM guide suggests choosing a container for the mature plant so it does not need repotting.

Do herbs in pots need fertilizer?

Yes, but lightly. Illinois says not to over fertilize. UVM suggests a water-soluble fertilizer such as 10-20-10, used according to the label. Kentucky State says to fertilize seed-grown containers three weeks after the plants have two sets of leaves.

Sources

https://extension.illinois.edu/container-gardens/growing-herbs-containers (opened 2026-10-23)
https://www.kysu.edu/documents/college-of-agriculture-communities-the-sciences/herbs_01_rev2020.pdf (opened 2026-10-23)
https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/annuals-perennials/1081-growing-herbs-containers/ (opened 2026-10-23)
https://www.uvm.edu/news/extension/growing-vegetables-and-herbs-containers (opened 2026-10-23)