How to Grow Figs from Cuttings

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If you want to know how to grow figs from cuttings, the basic route is simple and inexpensive. Take dormant hardwood stems in winter, root them in a warm and humid spot, pot the rooted stems, and plant the young tree in the ground once it has grown on. The four pages this guide draws on support that route. They differ on timing, cutting length and whether rooting hormone is worth using, so the steps below give each source’s own figures.

Quick answer

Take hardwood cuttings while the tree is fully dormant. The sources place that window in January and February in most cases.
Keep the cut stems warm and humid until callus and roots form, then pot them in well-drained media.
Grow the rooted plants in pots for their first year, then set them in the ground in full sun with at least 16 feet of space for each tree.

Why hardwood cuttings suit figs

The New Mexico State University Extension horticulture team gives the core reason in one line: “Fig trees (Ficus carica) are one of the relatively few species that propagate easier from hardwood cuttings than softwood.” The column explains the terms. “Hardwood just means dormant, older growth.” Softwood is the soft, usually green, new season growth, and the same column notes that “The drawback of softwood is that it is very susceptible to drying out, so providing high humidity is key.”

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension makes the same choice. Its fruit specialists state that “Hardwood cuttings that are taken when the plants are fully dormant will readily root and are most commonly used to propagate figs.” The same publication opens its propagation section with a broader statement: “Figs are one of the easiest fruit crops to propagate.”

Choosing and timing the cuttings

The sources overlap on timing but do not match exactly. The North Carolina Cooperative Extension article, written by a Gates County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, says to “Take cuttings in January through April approximately 6 inches long.” The Ask Extension expert asks for terminal cuttings, meaning stems that carry the top bud, “about eight inches long in January and February.” The NMSU column says that “the best time to harvest the wood for fig propagation is in the wintertime.”

Texas A&M is more specific about size. It recommends stems 6 to 10 inches long and about half an inch to one inch thick. Cut them while the plant is fully dormant, as the guide describes, and keep them in a state where they can still root.

Collect more stems than you need. The NC Extension article gives a rough rooting rate, saying “About 75% should take root; however.” The same article warns that “Keep in mind that not all cuttings will root and become trees!” Plan for losses and take a few spare stems.

Rooting the cuttings in pots

The NC Extension method runs in order. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, which the article says is available at gardening centers. Put the cutting in seed starting soil mix in a small pot. Then place the pot in a greenhouse-like environment until leaves sprout. The article is firm on this last step: “Must have high humidity.” The author describes a plastic tub with a lid kept in a sunny spot indoors, and notes that the cuttings “can be placed inside of a clear tote in a sunny location to help maintain humidity for root formation.”

Texas A&M offers a different first stage for the same goal. It says “To encourage callus formation, place the cuttings in a warm, humid environment such as in a moist paper towel placed in a plastic bag for 10 to 14 days.” After that, plant the cuttings in pots in commercial potting media to encourage root and shoot formation. The guide’s goal is callus, which the Ask Extension expert describes as “essentially plant scar tissue.”

The Ask Extension expert describes the same sequence from a different angle. Roots “will typically form from callus” within two to four weeks, and the expert advises potting the cuttings in well-drained soil in a sheltered place. The rooted cuttings should be kept in a “warm, bright (but no direct sun) location with high humidity” until they develop enough roots to handle drier air. For a potting mix option, see our soil for raised planters guide.

Two low-effort rooting methods

The NC Extension article also describes two methods that need less equipment. In the first, you cut stems about six inches long in early spring, wrap the bottoms in moist paper towels, and place each one in a plastic bag on top of a refrigerator or in another warm spot. The article says roots “May take three to six weeks to see roots emerge,” so check the bags now and then and keep the towels damp.

In the second method, the article suggests you “Take six to eight inch cuttings and place in vase of water.” When roots emerge, the article says to plant the cutting as in the paper towel method and continue with the same care.

Moving rooted cuttings outdoors

Once roots are established, the sources move the young plants up in size slowly. The NC article says to plant them in larger pots and put them in shade outside, and it notes that it “could take 3 to 6 weeks before ready to transplant to larger pots after roots have developed.” The Ask Extension expert advises a container year as well: the young tree should be allowed to grow in the container for the first year before going into the ground or into separate pots.

The expert gives a practical sign for the next move. Plants can be moved on once “you will see roots reaching the sides of the root ball,” which the expert says usually takes about a month.

Planting the young fig in the ground

Texas A&M gives the most detailed planting steps. It says figs “are traditionally planted in late winter or early spring as dormant rooted cuttings.” Plant them “2 to 3 inches deeper than they were grown in the nursery,” and keep them “no closer than 16 feet apart,” because “the trees can reach 20 feet tall.” Dig a hole deeper and wider than the root system needs, set the tree upright, and crumble soil around the roots. Pack the soil down several times during filling so that every root touches moist soil, then water the tree to settle the soil around the roots.

The same guide asks you to cut back the dormant trunk by about a third at planting. It explains that the young tree’s first growth comes from stored reserves in the trunk and roots, and that the cut helps compensate for root loss when the tree was dug up in the nursery. On feeding, the advice is clear: “Do not fertilize at planting.”

Site choice matters too. The Texas guide says that “Figs perform best when planted in locations that receive full sun exposure,” and advises that figs be planted in “well-drained soil.” It also warns that figs “can suffer extensive damage from root knot nematodes in sandy soils,” so the soil they go into matters.

On timing, the sources differ. The NC article says to plant in the ground at the permanent location in the fall, using the words “In the fall, plant in the ground at permanent location.” Texas A&M points to late winter or early spring. Growers in colder areas should check local guidance before they choose a date.

Mulch, feeding and water

Fig roots stay close to the surface. Texas A&M says that because the roots are shallow, “figs will benefit from organic mulch.” It adds that “The mulch will conserve soil moisture and improve the soil structure.” The guide also describes fig roots as “relatively sensitive to drought stress,” which is one reason a mulch layer is worth the effort.

For feeding, the guide recommends small, regular doses rather than one large application: “Small, frequent applications of nitrogen will benefit both young and mature fig trees.”

Cold protection for young trees

Texas A&M says figs are generally limited to areas where temperatures do not drop below 5 degrees Fahrenheit, and it adds that “the stem tissues can be injured at much higher temperatures.” The guide notes that “young plants and young, tender trunks are more susceptible than are older, mature trunks,” so the first winters need the most care.

Two steps come from the Texas guide. The first is to water well before a hard freeze: “To minimize freeze injury during dry falls and winters, thoroughly water the fig trees a few days before a hard freeze.” The second is a cage: “Young plants can similarly have wire cages placed over them at the onset of winter.” The cages can be stuffed with “organic matter such as hay, lawn clippings, or leaves for protection.” After the risk of spring frost has passed, remove the cages, and pull the material back from the trunk so it can serve as mulch.

Readers who keep a young fig in a container outdoors can also see our guide to outdoor planters for winter. The fig sources do not give a container size or a wintering method for pots.

Choosing a variety

Texas A&M states that “only the common fig is produced in Texas and other Gulf Coast states,” and names three standard varieties for home or limited commercial growing: Alma, Celeste and Texas Everbearing. Of these, the guide says Celeste “Appears to be the most cold hardy of all fig varieties that have been evaluated in Texas.” Texas Everbearing is less cold hardy than Celeste, though the guide says its trees can survive temperatures in the low teens, and that severe damage can follow dry winters or poor acclimation.

Fruit eye is the second variety question. The Texas guide warns that “Varieties with an open eye may be susceptible to feeding by the dried fruit beetle or souring when rain enters the interior of the fruit.” It also names varieties “suggested for trial plantings,” including Blue Giant, Bournabat, Lemon and LSU Purple. The guide ties cold tolerance to variety, so match the choice to your own winters.

Shaping a young fig

Texas A&M notes that figs “are commonly grown as multi-trunked plants in more temperate parts of Texas.” In years when figs are frozen to the ground, the guide says they typically respond by sending up many new shoots. Once those shoots are about 2 feet high, you select five or six strong shoots to keep as new trunks. Reducing the number of new shoots over a 2- to 3-week period lessens the shock of losing leaf area.

Common mistakes to avoid

Letting the cuttings dry out or sit too wet. The NMSU column warns that bare hardwood sticks can rot if they stay too wet before roots establish.
Skipping humidity. The NC article says the rooting stage must have high humidity.
Planting too close together. Texas A&M says to plant “no closer than 16 feet apart.”
Feeding at planting. The same guide says not to fertilize at planting.
Expecting every stem to root. The NC article estimates that about 75 percent should take root.

How we chose

The guide draws on four pages, all from university or extension services: an NC Cooperative Extension article by a Gates County Master Gardener Volunteer, an Ask Extension answer from an extension expert, a New Mexico State University Southwest Yard & Garden column by an extension horticulture specialist, and a Texas A&M AgriLife Extension fruit publication. Each page had to be opened, read in full, and say something specific about rooting or planting figs. Pages that appeared in search results but were not opened were not used.

What we could not verify

The sources are three extension pages from Texas, North Carolina and New Mexico, plus an Ask Extension answer dated December 2016. None of them gives a success rate for fig cuttings in a cold northern winter, which is where many growers need the most help. The Texas variety notes reflect Texas and Gulf Coast conditions, so the names here are not a recommendation for every garden.

What the sources do not say

The pages we opened do not agree on when to set a rooted fig in the ground. The NC article points to fall, and the Texas guide points to late winter or early spring. None of the pages gives a fixed number of days for water rooting, and none gives a cold limit for a particular variety outside Texas. The sources also do not set a single rule for how wet a paper towel should be.

Frequently asked questions

Can a fig cutting root in water?

The NC Extension article describes that method, with cuttings in a vase of water until roots appear. It gives no number of days for the water stage, so watch for roots and then pot the cutting.

When is the best time to take fig cuttings?

The sources point to the dormant season. The NMSU column names winter, the Ask Extension expert names January and February, and the NC article gives a wider window from January through April.

Is rooting hormone necessary for figs?

The sources are not unanimous. The NMSU column says that “Rooting hormone is recommended for the home gardener when attempting propagation from cuttings.” The Ask Extension expert says a dip increases the percentage and uniformity of rooting. The NC article lists hormone as the first step of its method.

How long before a rooted fig cutting bears fruit?

The Ask Extension expert expects a first crop within two to three years and a full crop within four to five years, with full sun, well-drained soil, regular fertilizer and plenty of water.

What should a grower do with a young fig in winter?

The Texas guide recommends watering well before a hard freeze and covering young plants with wire cages packed with organic matter. Remove the covering after the risk of spring frost has passed. The guide does not give a temperature at which a young tree is safe, so check local advice for your area.

Sources

https://gates.ces.ncsu.edu/2025/01/propagating-figs-through-hardwood-cuttings/ (opened 2026-10-23)
https://ask.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=379337 (opened 2026-10-23)
https://swyg.nmsu.edu/2018/080418.html (opened 2026-10-23)
https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/Figs.pdf (opened 2026-10-23)