How to Grow Chicory from Seed
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How to grow chicory from seed starts with picking the right chicory. The two garden types covered by the extension guides are witloof, grown for its root, and radicchio, grown for its leaf head. Both grow best in cool weather, so the calendar matters as much as the seed packet.
This guide follows the quick answer with the steps in order: choosing the type, sowing, spacing and thinning, water and feeding, harvest and forcing. It draws on three extension publications and an NC State plant profile, and it points out where those sources do not give a number.
Quick answer
- Choose witloof for a forced winter root or radicchio for a leaf head. Spacing and harvest differ between them.
- Sow in cool weather. Utah State suggests sowing 3 to 4 weeks before the last frost-free date, and Cornell suggests direct-sowing radicchio 4 to 6 weeks before average last frost.
- Plant seed about one quarter inch deep, thin at three or four true leaves, and space witloof 9 inches apart and radicchio 8 inches apart.
- Keep the soil evenly moist and avoid extra nitrogen once heads begin to form, because excess feeding works against tight heads.
Choose the type before you sow
Witloof is grown for its root, which is forced in winter to produce a tight, white set of leaves. Radicchio is grown for its head of leaves. Some types make loose leaves and others make a tight head. Cornell notes that heads are round in the chioggia types and elongated in the trevisio types, a useful clue when you read seed catalogs.
Plant names can mislead. The NC State profile says that both wild and cultivated varieties exist. The common roadside plant with attractive blue flowers is the wild form, and its leaves are edible but bitter. Garden witloof and radicchio are cultivated forms of the same species, so choose them from a seed source that lists the garden type rather than collecting wild seed.
Prepare the site first
Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil. Utah State says chicory prefers fertile, well-drained soils rich in organic matter, and that the plant grows best in a site that drains well. Before you plant, run a soil test and follow the recommendations on the report. If the test calls for fertilizer, work it into the top 6 inches of soil. If you use compost instead, the same guide says to apply no more than 1 inch of well-composted organic matter per 100 square feet of garden area.
Sow at the right time
Timing depends on the crop and the climate. Utah State says seeded witloof may be planted three to four weeks before the last frost-free date, and that seeded radicchio follows the same window. Transplants should be planted near the last frost-free date. Cornell advises direct-sowing radicchio four to six weeks before average last frost. Its nonforcing varieties can be sown through mid-summer for a fall and winter harvest, and the guide notes that transplants tend to bolt, which is why direct sowing is the usual method.
The Oregon State winter vegetable publication points the same way. It says chicory and radicchio perform best under cool temperatures, so they are normally grown in early spring or late fall. It also says plants transplanted in July are harvested from October to February, though days to maturity differ between varieties.
| Source | Timing the source gives |
|---|---|
| Utah State Extension (witloof and radicchio) | Seeded plants 3 to 4 weeks before the last frost-free date |
| Cornell (radicchio) | Direct-sow 4 to 6 weeks before average last frost; nonforcing types into mid-summer for fall and winter |
| Oregon State (chicory and radicchio) | Cool-weather crops, normally grown in early spring or late fall |
For a late-season bed, see preparing raised beds for winter.
Seed depth, spacing and thinning
Utah State says to plant chicory seeds about one quarter inch deep, then thin the seedlings when the plants have three or four true leaves. Plants removed at thinning can fill gaps elsewhere in the bed. Transplanting is used to provide an earlier harvest. Transplants should have four to six mature leaves and a well-developed root system before they go out, which takes about five to six weeks to grow.
Spacing depends on the type. Utah State gives witloof 9 inches apart in the row with rows 20 inches apart, and radicchio 8 inches apart in the row with rows 12 inches apart. It also advises sowing several seeds for each radicchio plant you want, because not every seed germinates. Cornell’s radicchio guide uses a wider pattern: seed 3 to 4 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart, thinned to about 10 inches. Pick the pattern that fits your bed, since the two guides differ on row spacing.
Closely spaced plants also help against weeds, as the next section explains. For a bed of the right size, see companion planting for a raised bed layout.
Water, feeding and cool-weather care
Water chicory regularly to keep the soil uniformly moist. Utah State suggests about one to two inches per week, and it warns that drought stress slows leaf development and brings out bitter flavors. Organic mulch helps. The same guide recommends grass clippings, straw or newspapers, which help cool the soil in hot spells, conserve moisture and reduce weeds.
Feed lightly. Utah State suggests one nitrogen feeding about four weeks after transplanting or thinning, placed beside the plants and watered in. It warns against excessive nitrogen, because it works against tight heads and healthy roots. It also says to stop adding nitrogen once heads begin to form. Some radicchio varieties need cool temperatures to form heads, so the season you sow in matters as much as the feeding.
Weeds, frost and cover
Weeds are the early problem. Utah State says chicory does not compete well with weeds, so weed control matters most while the crop is establishing. Closely spaced plants will help control weeds, and dense planting reduces weed pressure. Cultivation should stay shallow to avoid root damage. The fabric covers the same guide describes protect seedlings and transplants from frost, which helps when a cold snap follows sowing.
Get radicchio to head
Heading is where the radicchio types differ most. Utah State says some varieties need cool temperatures to form heads. For those types, the same guide says to leave plants in the ground past the first frost date, which exposes them to the temperatures that favor heading. Remove the dead outer leaves, then harvest the head. Cornell’s general advice is to plant older forcing varieties in spring and cut them back, while nonforcing varieties need no cutting back and form heads in fall or even in summer.
Harvest radicchio at full size
Utah State says radicchio should be harvested when the leaves or heads reach full size. Delaying the harvest causes bitter flavors and toughness, so do not wait for an overgrown head. The Oregon State publication adds that outer wrapper leaves can be killed by hard freezes, while the inside of the head is still marketable after trimming.
Force witloof roots for winter chicons
Witloof roots are harvested just before the first frost date. Utah State says to cut the leaves about one inch above the crown and lift the root from the soil before trimming.Utah State says to trim the roots to a uniform size and store them for three to seven weeks before forcing. To force them, prepare buckets with two to four inches of water and a dilute, soluble fertilizer, set the roots upright in damp sand, and cover them. Witloof must be forced in complete darkness and in a cool cellar. The new growth is called a chicon, and forced heads are harvested three to five weeks after the roots move to pots.
The roots can be forced a second time after a rest of one to two months, but the second chicon is smaller than the first. Plan the winter schedule before you sow, since the root has to be grown and stored before any forcing starts.
Taste, bitterness and storage
Bitterness is the main complaint about chicory, and the sources offer a few ways to manage it. The Oregon State publication says purple radicchio varieties are typically more bitter, while the green types are milder. It adds that radicchio should first be soaked in ice-cold water for at least 30 minutes to leach out the bitter compounds, and that cooking mellows the bitterness. Utah State links bitter flavors to drought stress and to delayed harvest, so watering and timing shape the taste as much as the variety does.
Storage matters too. Utah State says radicchio can be stored for two to three weeks in cold, humid conditions, and it warns against storing radicchio with fruit such as apples and pears, because bitter flavors develop. Witloof leaves can be picked for greens while the root grows, and the same guide says to pick them while they are young and tender.
Mistakes to avoid
- Sowing into midsummer heat for a spring-style crop. Utah State says high summer temperatures reduce growth and quality.
- Feeding too heavily. Excess nitrogen works against tight heads.
- Letting the soil dry out. Drought stress brings out bitter flavors.
- Waiting too long to harvest radicchio. Delay causes bitterness and toughness.
- Confusing garden chicory with the wild roadside plant, which NC State describes as edible but bitter.
How we chose
The guide draws on three extension publications and one university extension plant profile. Utah State’s guide covers witloof and radicchio in home gardens, Cornell’s radicchio guide covers direct sowing and heading, and Oregon State’s winter vegetable publication covers cool-season timing. The NC State profile separates wild chicory from garden types. The guide does not rank the types; it separates them by how they are used. Advice was kept when a fetched page stated it in plain words, and where pages differed, both views are shown. Seed catalogs and variety names were left out, because the guide recommends no products. Each figure was checked against the text of its page on 2026-10-23.
What we could not verify
The pages give useful timing, but they leave gaps. The points below are not facts about chicory, and they are the first things to check with a local expert.
What the sources do not say
No fetched page gives one sowing date that fits every climate, because the frost references differ between the guides. The sources do not give an indoor seed-starting schedule. The Cornell text does not state its seed depth cleanly, so the draft uses the Utah State figure. Forcing guidance comes from Utah State alone, and no source compares forcing containers. Pest and disease control is outside this guide, and no control product is recommended.
Frequently asked questions
Is witloof the same plant as radicchio?
Both belong to the chicory species, but witloof is grown for its root and forced for winter chicons, while radicchio is grown for its leaf head. Utah State describes them as two separate garden types.
Can chicory be sown in summer?
Some types can. Cornell says nonforcing radicchio varieties can be sown through mid-summer for a fall and winter harvest. Utah State notes that high summer temperatures reduce growth and quality, so a summer sowing needs cool weather later on.
Why does my radicchio not form a head?
Utah State says some radicchio varieties need cool temperatures to form heads. Cornell notes that newer varieties are bolt-resistant and form heads without that trigger, so variety choice matters for a warm season.
How long does it take to grow witloof chicons?
Utah State says forced witloof heads are harvested three to five weeks after the roots move to pots. A second forcing needs a rest of one to two months and gives a smaller chicon.
Is garden chicory the same as the roadside plant?
No. The NC State profile describes wild chicory as a plant that forms a rosette in its first year, with attractive blue flowers and bitter leaves. Garden witloof and radicchio are cultivated types of the same species.
Bottom line
Pick witloof or radicchio first, sow in cool weather, keep the soil evenly moist, and harvest radicchio at full size. Witloof adds a winter forcing step, if your season and your cellar allow it. For companion planting ideas, see easiest vegetables to grow in raised beds.
Sources
- https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/chicory-in-the-garden (opened 2026-10-23)
- http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene1f17.html (opened 2026-10-23)
- https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/extd8/files/documents/pnw548.pdf (opened 2026-10-23)
- https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/cichorium-intybus/ (opened 2026-10-23)
