How to Attract Frogs to Garden

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How to attract frogs to garden comes down to two things frogs need most: water they can enter and leave easily, and cover where they can hide from predators. The sources below agree on both. They also agree that the yard should be free of pesticides and that frogs should not be bought or moved. Where they differ, mostly on pond depth and on moving water, this guide shows each figure rather than averaging them.

Quick answer

Give frogs water first: a pond with gently sloping edges, or a simple birdbath set at ground level.
Add cover with native plants at the water’s edge, logs, rock piles, and an unmowed strip of lawn near the pond.
Keep pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers out of the yard, since they can harm frogs directly and reduce their food.
Expect to wait. The National Wildlife Federation article says frogs may take a year or two to move in, and only frogs native to the area will come.

Start with water they can enter and leave

A pond is the most useful step, because frogs lay their eggs in standing water and many species like to stay at the water’s edge. Oregon State University’s reptile and amphibian guide says a pond should offer both sun and shade, and it gives a depth and an edge shape for the pond. The table compares the figures the sources give.

Source	Depth	Shape and edges
Oregon State University, EC 1542	At least 20 inches	A shallow gradient at the edges
Oregon State University, EC 1548	At least 20 inches at the deepest part	A drop of 6 inches for every 3 horizontal feet
Froglife, UK wildlife charity	At least 60 cm (about 24 inches) in a deeper central section	Gently sloping sides and shelved areas for plants
National Wildlife Federation, 2000 magazine article	Not given	Shallow ponds that gradually slope into deeper water

Oregon State’s pond guide names a deepest part, and Froglife describes a deeper section in the middle of the pond. Froglife gives a reason for that section: it lets amphibians lie dormant on the bottom during icy weather. Oregon State does not give that reason, so the depth question depends partly on how cold your winters get.

The slope matters as much as the depth. The National Wildlife Federation article quotes a U.S. Geological Survey wildlife biologist who says that the usual problem is that frogs can jump in, but the sides are too steep for them to get out. Froglife says the most important factor in any pond design is gently sloping sides and plenty of native vegetation, so that animals can enter and leave the water easily.

Size matters less than shape. Froglife says that ideally a pond for breeding amphibians should be at least 2 meters by 2 meters, and it adds that even tiny ponds and bog gardens are used by local wildlife. It describes a mini-pond made from a tub, half-barrel or old sink, which can be sunk into the ground or left standing. It calls raised or tub ponds smaller and safer while still useful to wildlife.

Use a birdbath when a pond does not fit

Not every yard has room for a pond, and the National Wildlife Federation’s 2018 blog post offers a simpler option. It says a simple birdbath placed right on ground level can be a useful water feature for moisture-loving amphibians. The blog presents this as a fallback for yards with no room for a breeding pond, so a birdbath is a starting point rather than a full habitat. For more on bird baths, see our bird bath comparison.

Give the pond sun and some shade

The reptile and amphibian guide says a pond should offer both sun and shade. Its pond guide adds a practical number: most ponds, unless they are very shallow, should get at least 5 to 6 hours of sunlight per day. The reptile and amphibian guide also warns that too much sun or too many nutrients can cause algae blooms, and it names fertilizer as one source of those nutrients.

Plant cover needs a limit as well. The pond guide says the best ratio is half plants to half open water, and that no more than 65 percent of the pond should be covered with plants during the summer months.

Plant the edges with natives

Plants give frogs cover, food and shelter. Froglife recommends a mixture of native emergent, submerged and floating plants, and it says marginal plants at the edge give cover as animals enter and leave the water. It also warns against introducing non-native species, which can be extremely invasive. Oregon State’s pond guide makes the same point in plainer words: native plants are more familiar to wildlife and are well adapted to the environment.

The National Wildlife Federation article names some good cover plants for a pond edge: swamp milkweed, joe-pye weed, cardinal flower, black-eyed Susans and ferns. For the footing at the shallow edge, Oregon State’s pond guide suggests putting sand or small rocks in the shallow areas, which gives wildlife a place to stand. It also describes a muddy, beach-like area as important for many species of wildlife.

Build cover on land around the pond

Frogs spend much of their lives out of the water, so cover around the pond matters as much as the pond itself. The National Wildlife Federation’s 2018 blog says to offer plenty of cover and hiding places from predators, and it names kids and pets among the predators that cover can protect against. It recommends eliminating lawn areas in favor of densely planted beds.

The reptile and amphibian guide lists big logs, down wood and plants near the pond as shelter for herps. It also calls rock piles or rock walls excellent habitat, because herps use them as cover from predators and weather, as places to raise young, and for basking. A pile of rocks, bricks or broken concrete can serve that purpose, according to the same guide.

The National Wildlife Federation article gives a lawn plan. It suggests leaving a section of the lawn near the pond unmowed, along with the cover plants, because that provides additional shelter and food for the frogs. It suggests mowing the rest at the highest setting. The same article says cover should keep frogs cool, moist and hidden from their land-based predators.

Keep chemicals out of the yard

Chemicals are the one thing every source agrees to avoid. The National Wildlife Federation’s 2018 blog says not to spray pesticides in the yard, whether they are insecticides, herbicides or fungicides. It warns that these can kill amphibians directly, cause deformities, or eliminate the habitat and food sources frogs depend on. The 2000 article says gardeners should ditch the fertilizers and pesticides, and it quotes the National Wildlife Federation’s chief naturalist on the issue: because their skin is porous, these animals absorb toxics easily.

Insects are the food that the chemicals take away. The 2000 article says frogs and toads consume loads of insects, such as mosquitoes and beetles, as well as pests such as slugs. It adds that a pond does not need food put out for the frogs, because the plantings attract the insects and other creatures that frogs eat. Tadpoles feed on algae and other organisms that naturally occur in ponds.

Keep fish and large predators out of the pond

Fish are the clearest problem for frog ponds. Froglife says fish are predators of frog spawn and tadpoles, and that even small fish can cause problems by competing with tadpoles for food. For that reason it advises against introducing fish. The National Wildlife Federation article gives the same advice, telling gardeners not to stock their pond with fish.

Some predators are not fish. The reptile and amphibian guide says the bullfrog eats the young of native snakes, frogs, fish, turtles, ducks and small mammals, and that exotic animals can be very damaging to native populations. The National Wildlife Federation article notes that dogs and cats will be tempted to chase and kill frogs, so house pets need to be kept away from a new frog colony.

Oregon State’s pond guide offers a note for gardeners who keep fish anyway: it suggests a filter and a pump for a fish pond. A pump is not needed for a frog pond, but if you add one to a pond built for fish, see our pond pump comparison.

Do not buy or move frogs

The most common mistake in wildlife ponds is buying animals to fill them. The National Wildlife Federation article warns that tadpoles sold by supply houses are often bullfrogs, which prey on other frogs and even birds. The buyer is bringing in unknown amphibians from an unknown place, and the article says that is a risky way to start.

Moving adult frogs from a nearby pond is also a poor plan. The same biologist says that frogs and toads are good dispersers, and that it is best to let them find the pond and settle on their own. The reptile and amphibian guide says it is illegal to release nonnative species, and it advises against releasing exotic or pet store animals into a yard. The article also notes that a pond attracts only the frogs native to the area and those able to live in the setting it provides.

Check the rules before you dig

Oregon State’s pond guide says to check with your local zoning or planning office before you begin to build, and to find out whether you need a permit. It says to be sure the pond is safe and legal.

Plan the work for the right season

Timing starts the project. The National Wildlife Federation’s 2000 article says fall or early spring are the best times to begin creating a frog-friendly habitat, because all you need to provide is water and cover. Froglife recommends doing pond work in late autumn, around September and October, when the fewest amphibians are present to be disturbed. If a repair cannot wait, Froglife says adult amphibians can be kept in a bucket of damp vegetation while you work, and tadpoles can be scooped out and held in a bucket of pond water until the work is finished.

Frogs take time. The National Wildlife Federation article says it may take a year or two before frogs or toads move in, because the plants need time to mature and the frogs need time to find the habitat. The article says attraction is easier in the northern and eastern states, where frogs are more plentiful. In the more arid southern and western regions, it says, it may not be possible to lure frogs to a backyard pond.

Mistakes to avoid

Steep, slippery sides. Froglife says prefabricated shells have slopes that are steep and slippery, which makes them poor habitat for wildlife.
Adding fish. Froglife and the National Wildlife Federation both advise against it.
Using pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers near the pond. The National Wildlife Federation sources say pesticides can kill amphibians and eliminate their food.
Buying tadpoles or moving adult frogs. The National Wildlife Federation article warns that store-bought tadpoles are often bullfrogs.
Crowding the water with plants. The pond guide sets an upper limit of 65 percent plant cover in summer.
Mowing every part of the lawn. The National Wildlife Federation article suggests leaving a section unmowed near the pond.

Where the sources disagree

Moving water is the main disagreement. Oregon State’s pond guide says many species are attracted to moving water, and that moving water discourages mosquitoes. The National Wildlife Federation article says waterfalls can be a turnoff for frogs, which prefer quiet water. Because the sources conflict, a gardener who wants a fountain or waterfall should expect mixed results for frogs specifically.

What we could not verify

What the sources do not say

The sources do not give a list of frog species for most U.S. regions. The Oregon State publications describe species that live in Oregon, and the Froglife page is written for the United Kingdom, with metric measures and British species. The National Wildlife Federation magazine article is from 2000, so some of its details may be out of date. No U.S. state wildlife agency page on frogs could be opened, because the Georgia pages returned 403. The sources also do not say how many frogs a pond will attract, or how quickly a particular species will settle. The claim that moving water discourages mosquitoes comes from one source and is not confirmed by the others.

How we chose

This guide relied on extension and wildlife pages with specific pond and habitat advice: two Oregon State University publications, a 2000 National Wildlife Federation magazine article, a 2018 National Wildlife Federation blog post, and a Froglife page. Each page had to load on 2026-10-23 and contain advice on frog habitat. Pages that returned a 403 status, did not respond, or returned a bot-challenge page were left out, including a Missouri Extension news item, two Georgia wildlife pages, and a Michigan State news item. Commercial gardening sites and search results that were not opened were not used. Where sources differ, both views appear in the text.

Frequently asked questions

Do frogs need a pond to visit a garden?

A pond is the best option. The reptile and amphibian guide says the best way to provide water for herps is to make a pond. Where a pond does not fit, a birdbath at ground level can give frogs water, according to the National Wildlife Federation blog.

How long does it take for frogs to arrive?

Expect a wait of a year or two. The National Wildlife Federation article says new plantings need time to mature, and frogs need time to find a new pond. Only frogs native to the area will come, according to the same article.

Should a gardener buy frogs or tadpoles to start a pond?

No source recommends it. The National Wildlife Federation article says store-bought tadpoles are often bullfrogs, which prey on other frogs. The reptile and amphibian guide says releasing nonnative animals is illegal, so the safer path is to let frogs find the pond on their own.

Can a pond hold fish if frogs are the goal?

The frog-focused sources say no. Froglife says fish eat frog spawn and tadpoles, and the National Wildlife Federation article advises against stocking a pond with fish. Oregon State’s pond guide suggests a filter and pump only for a pond that has fish.

How deep should a frog pond be?

Oregon State gives at least 20 inches, and Froglife gives at least 60 centimeters in a central section, which is about 24 inches. Both sources also call for gently sloping edges, which matter as much as depth for frogs getting in and out.

Sources

Oregon State University Extension Service, The Wildlife Garden: Attract Reptiles and Amphibians to Your Yard (EC 1542, PDF): https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/extd8/files/documents/ec1542.pdf (opened 2026-10-23)
Oregon State University Extension Service, The Wildlife Garden: Create a Garden Pond for Wildlife (EC 1548, PDF): https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/extd8/files/documents/ec1548.pdf (opened 2026-10-23)
National Wildlife Federation, National Wildlife magazine, Want to Host a Garden Party for Frogs? (2000): https://nwf.org/Magazines/National-Wildlife/2000/Want-to-Host-a-Garden-Party-for-Frogs (opened 2026-10-23)
National Wildlife Federation blog, Five Tips to Help Frogs and Toads in Your Yard (2018): https://blog.nwf.org/2018/05/five-tips-to-help-frogs-and-toads-in-your-yard/ (opened 2026-10-23)
Froglife, Creating or improving ponds (frequently asked questions): https://www.froglife.org/info-advice/frequently-asked-questions/creating-or-improving-ponds/ (opened 2026-10-23)