How to Grow Goji Berries

How to Grow Goji Berries

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How to grow goji berries starts with a practical question: will the shrub grow where you live, and will your local rules let you keep it? Goji, Lycium barbarum, is a thorny, arching shrub native to China. Its zone range and its reputation for suckering differ between the sources, so the first sections deal with both before any planting advice.

The quick answer comes first, then the steps in order: site, spacing and containers, starting plants, water, feeding, pruning, harvest and storage. The sources are four extension and university pages, and they disagree in places, which this guide shows rather than hides.

Quick answer

  • Check your zone and local rules first. Utah State recommends zones 4 to 7, while UF/IFAS says zones 4b to 9b.
  • Give the shrub full sun and light, well-drained soil, and never let its roots sit in waterlogged ground.
  • Allow about 4 to 5 feet in every direction, or use a container of at least 5 gallons, since goji develops a deep taproot.
  • Water about one inch per week, with drip irrigation where you can, and keep suckers in check.

Check your zone and local rules first

Know what the plant looks like before you commit space to it. Utah State says the plant’s habit ranges from viney to erect depending on the cultivar. When pruned, shrubs are typically 3 to 6 feet tall, and left alone they can reach 12 feet. The stem carries thorns, and the plant flowers in late spring with purple blossoms, followed by small orange to red fruit.

The sources do not agree on hardiness. Utah State Extension recommends goji for zones 4 to 7. The UF/IFAS publication says the crop can be grown in zones 4b to 9b, and Colorado State lists it as hardy to Zone 4. Start by checking your own zone against both ranges, and ask your county extension office which one fits your yard.

Invasiveness is the other question. Utah State says that in some areas goji is considered a weed because it suckers and spreads by seed. NC State lists it as a weed across much of Europe, North America and Australia. Colorado State warns that it suckers and can be invasive if not kept in check. The UF/IFAS sheet reports that Florida botanists concluded goji is not an invasive species, and it notes that the plant can be mistakenly considered invasive because it tolerates poor conditions. Read your state’s rules before buying plants, and plan to dig up suckers when they appear, as Utah State advises.

Pick a sunny site with light, well-drained soil

Plants can handle relatively harsh conditions, according to Utah State, and fruit quality is best during hot, dry weather. Quality diminishes when weather is cool and humid. Full sun is the standard. UF/IFAS says goji grows best in full sun, and Utah State says to plant it in full sun, although some shade can be tolerated. The UF sheet describes goji as growing mostly on sandy and loam soils, with a pH of 6.8 to 8.1 being optimal. Utah State says the crop grows in slightly alkaline soil and does not grow well in acidic soils, so a soil test before planting tells you where your yard sits on that range.

Drainage matters as much as soil type. The UF sheet says goji is susceptible to waterlogging and should not be planted in lowlands that do not drain well. Utah State adds that goji can be grown in clay, but the plant does not do well if its roots are consistently wet, so irrigate heavy soil with care.

Spacing and container size

Utah State says a home plant needs about 4 to 5 feet in all directions, which lets it reach full size and makes harvest easier. In rows, it advises 2 to 4 feet between plants and 6 to 8 feet between rows. The UF/IFAS spacing is similar, at 3 to 5 feet in the row and 6 to 8 feet between rows.

Containers are an option. The UF/IFAS sheet says goji can be grown in containers as an ornamental plant, and because it develops a deep taproot, the container should be at least 5 gallons. NC State says goji berries creep along the ground and are easier to harvest if staked, so plan a support early. For a container of the right size, see extra-large planters.

Start from cuttings, seed or layers

NC State says goji is best propagated by seed, but cuttings and layers may also be used. The UF/IFAS sheet takes a different view for home growers: cuttings are the most common and easiest way to propagate goji. Utah State says plants can readily be propagated from seed, though it also says a named cultivar is the surer way to a productive plant. This guide names no cultivar, because the sources give no basis for choosing one.

Whatever you start with, planting time and method are the same. Utah State says to plant in spring into a hole two times wider than the roots, which encourages the roots to spread. It also recommends organic mulch around the base, which moderates root temperature and keeps weeds down. New transplants need more frequent watering while their roots establish.

Water with drip, and not too much

Utah State recommends about one inch of water per week, adjusted for soil type and season. Sandy soils need to be watered more frequently than clay soils. Drip irrigation is the most efficient method, because it is subject to less evaporation and delivers water to the root zone. The UF sheet says drip also reduces weeds and discourages pests and diseases, and Utah State adds that drip helps keep weed and disease pressure low. For a drip setup from a standard hose, see garden hose to drip irrigation adapters.

Feed lightly and in spring

The UF/IFAS sheet says fertilizers have the greatest impact on goji growth when applied in spring, and that nitrogen is especially beneficial, followed by phosphate and potassium. It also says that adding organic materials and compost to sandy and loam soils may help the soil retain moisture and nutrients. Utah State warns that too much fertility causes excess leafy growth and shading, which reduces fruit quality. Feed to what the plant shows you, and check the result each season.

Prune for a strong frame

The first year needs little pruning. The UF/IFAS sheet says the plant does not need pruning in its first year, and Utah State says the same. In the second year, the UF/IFAS sheet suggests letting the largest healthy stem grow as the trunk, pruning the others from 0 to 12 inches above the ground, and cutting the tip of the trunk when it reaches 16 to 18 inches to encourage side branches. It advises keeping three to five strong side shoots growing from the main stem, and removing new shoots at the trunk base, because they do not bear fruit.

Utah State describes a routine for established plants. During the dormant season, begin by removing any weak, damaged or crossing branches, then shorten laterals by cutting back 6 to 18 inches from the tip. In early summer, pinch off the top 2 to 3 inches of terminal growth to encourage branching. After about three years, the plant usually begins to sucker. Dig up the shoots and either discard or transplant them, because if left unchecked the plant can become very unmanageable.

Watch for wildlife and leaf pests

Birds and squirrels can take the berries. The UF/IFAS sheet says netting the crop can prevent birds or squirrels from foraging the berries, and that fencing can keep rabbits and deer away from leaves and young shoots. Utah State reports that the goji gall mite is the only pest reported on goji in Utah, and its photo shows galls on the leaves. This guide names the pest so you can recognize it, but it does not recommend a treatment. Your county extension office can advise on options for your area.

Harvest by hand at full color

Utah State says to harvest goji when the berries reach full color, which takes about 35 days after full bloom. The fruit must be picked by hand, because it does not easily separate from the stem, and bruised berries turn black. Fruiting runs from mid-summer to late fall, and the plant keeps blooming, so the harvest spreads out. The UF/IFAS sheet says berries can be picked when they turn red or orange, and that in its conditions the berries can be harvested once every 10 to 15 days.

Expect the first real crop in year two, with fuller production later. Utah State says plants begin producing when they are two years old, reach maximum production three to five years after planting, and can yield two to six pounds per plant, depending on variety. The UF/IFAS sheet says fresh berries keep at room temperature for about one week, and longer in the refrigerator.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Planting where roots stay wet. The UF/IFAS sheet says goji is susceptible to waterlogging.
  • Overfeeding. Utah State says too much fertility reduces fruit quality.
  • Skipping the second-year shaping. The UF/IFAS sheet describes training to one main stem.
  • Ignoring suckers. Utah State says unchecked suckering makes the plant very unmanageable.
  • Picking early. Utah State says to harvest at full color.

How we chose

The guide draws on four pages: the UF/IFAS Florida Master Gardener publication HS1391, the Utah State Extension guide to goji in home gardens, the NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox profile, and the Colorado State Extension alternative small fruits resource. Advice was kept when a fetched page stated it in plain words, and where pages disagreed, both views are shown. The UF sheet’s health and nutrition claims were left out, because they fall outside growing advice. Cultivar names were left out, because the guide recommends no products. Each figure was checked against the text of its page on 2026-10-23.

What we could not verify

The four pages cover the core work, but they leave gaps. The points below are not facts about goji, and they are the first things to check with a local expert.

What the sources do not say

The zone ranges differ, and none of the pages settles which one is right for your yard. Invasiveness is disputed between a Florida finding and the warnings from other states, so local rules decide. No source gives one fertilizer rate that all of them support. The yield range of two to six pounds per plant comes from Utah State alone, and the pages give no container yield. The 5-gallon minimum is the only container size the sources state.

Frequently asked questions

Can goji berries grow in containers?

Yes, according to the UF/IFAS sheet, which calls containers an ornamental option. Use a container of at least 5 gallons, because the plant develops a deep taproot.

Are goji berries invasive?

The sources disagree. The UF/IFAS sheet cites Florida botanists who concluded it is not invasive, while NC State lists it as a weed in much of Europe, North America and Australia. Utah State and Colorado State warn about suckering. Check your state’s rules before planting.

How long until goji berries fruit?

Utah State says goji begins to produce fruit at two years, and reaches maximum production three to five years after planting.

How should a young goji plant be pruned?

Leave the first year alone, according to both the UF/IFAS sheet and Utah State. In the second year, the UF/IFAS sheet trains the plant to one main stem and keeps three to five strong side shoots.

When are goji berries ready to pick?

Utah State says to harvest at full color, about 35 days after full bloom, and to pick by hand. The UF/IFAS sheet says berries can be picked when they turn red or orange.

Bottom line

Check your zone and local rules, give goji full sun and good drainage, allow 4 to 5 feet or use a container of at least 5 gallons, and prune lightly while watching for suckers. Water with drip where you can, and check the result each season.

Sources

  • https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS1391/pdf (opened 2026-10-23)
  • https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/goji-in-the-garden.php (opened 2026-10-23)
  • https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/lycium/common-name/goji-berry/ (opened 2026-10-23)
  • https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/alternative-small-fruits/ (opened 2026-10-23)

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