How to Grow Arugula

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If you want to know how to grow arugula, the plant rewards a simple plan. It is a fast cool-season green that grows from seed quickly, and it needs cool soil, steady moisture and a little shade when the weather heats up. Most of the work is timing: sow early, sow again every few weeks, and pick the leaves while they are young.

This guide draws on five extension pages opened on 2026-10-23: Cornell Cooperative Extension, UF/IFAS Extension Leon County, the University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension, NC State Extension, and Penn State Extension. The sources agree on the basics. They disagree on spacing and on how long the sowing season runs, so both figures appear below.

Quick answer

Sow shallowly as early as the soil can be worked in spring, then sow again every two to three weeks for a steady supply.
Give arugula full sun to partial shade in fertile, well-drained soil. Some afternoon shade helps in hot weather.
Thin seedlings to about 6 inches apart, and use the thinnings in salads.
Pick the outer leaves when they are about 2 to 3 inches long, since older leaves turn bitter.

What arugula is and what it needs

Arugula, known in some places as roquette or rocket, is an annual cool-season vegetable in the mustard family. NC State Extension describes it as growing 8 inches to 3 feet tall and 8 to 18 inches wide, and it resembles tall lettuce. The plant is grown for its peppery leaves, which are often eaten fresh in salads or used in cooked dishes.

Cool weather suits it best. UF/IFAS says arugula grows best in temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and that it can tolerate light freezes. The University of Wisconsin-Madison guide notes that it is a cool-season crop grown much like lettuce or spinach, and that it tolerates frost, so it can be planted several weeks before the last spring frost.

Arugula also behaves as a quick crop. Cornell says plants are often ready to harvest as early as four weeks after seeding, and NC State says they mature within 40 to 50 days. Because it is so fast, the Wisconsin guide suggests interplanting it between other crops in small gardens where space is tight.

Sow the seed and space the plants

Timing is the first decision. Cornell says seeds germinate quickly even in cold soil, and it advises planting as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. The Wisconsin guide gives the same instruction in its own words: “Sow shallowly as early as the soil can be worked.” Cornell lists a germination temperature of 40 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit, with seedlings emerging in five to seven days.

Depth and spacing are simple. Cornell says to plant a quarter inch deep and about an inch apart in rows, or to broadcast the seed alone or mixed with other greens. Wisconsin gives a similar sowing approach, and it adds that seeds germinate within a few days even in cool soil.

Thinning is where the sources differ. Cornell says to thin gradually to 6-inch spacing and to use the thinnings in salads. NC State says to thin seedlings out to 6 inches apart. Wisconsin gives a wider range of 3 to 6 inches for individual plants, or it says you can leave denser plantings for cut-and-come-again harvests. UF/IFAS, which covers transplants, advises spacing each transplant 6 to 8 inches apart. Choose the spacing that fits how you plan to harvest.

Containers work too. NC State says to use a pot at least 3 gallons in size with a depth of 4 to 6 inches. The Wisconsin guide adds that arugula can be grown in containers and even on a bright windowsill in winter.

If you are also planning the rest of the raised bed, see our post on the easiest vegetables to grow in raised beds. For a wider list of crops for these beds, our guide to vegetables to grow in raised beds is the next read.

Keep the sowing going all season

A single sowing gives you one flush of leaves, so plan for more. Cornell advises making new plantings every two to three weeks until about a month before the average first frost date. The Wisconsin guide suggests successive sowings from early spring to fall, or letting a few plants flower and self-seed for a fall crop. NC State also recommends staggering plantings by one or two weeks.

The UF/IFAS Extension Leon County blog sets a different window. It says to plant arugula every two weeks from early fall through late spring, a longer season than the Cornell figure allows. If you garden where winters are cold, the Cornell and Wisconsin windows are the more relevant ones. Check your own first and last frost dates before picking a schedule.

Avoid planting arugula where other cabbage-family crops grew recently. Cornell gives this advice as a simple rule: “Avoid planting after other cabbage family crops.” Fitting arugula into a rotation with brassicas keeps the bed simpler to plan.

Light, soil and water

Give arugula the sun it wants, with a little help in heat. Wisconsin says to plant it in full sun in fertile, well-drained soil. NC State describes its range as full sun to partial shade. UF/IFAS suggests a location that gets partial to full sun for about four to six hours a day, and it notes that shade cloth with around 30 to 50 percent shading can help in summer.

The soil should hold moisture without staying soggy. NC State says arugula grows best in moist, rich soil, and UF/IFAS says it prefers well-draining soil with organic matter. UF/IFAS also advises against heavy clay soils, so amend with compost before planting if your bed is dense.

Keep the soil evenly moist. UF/IFAS advises watering when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch, and it recommends deep, even watering to encourage healthy roots. UF/IFAS also notes that arugula prefers slightly drier conditions than other greens, which sits uneasily with NC State’s moist, rich soil, so check how your own bed drains.

Keep arugula from bolting

Bolting is the main reason arugula fails early. Bolting is the stage of budding right before flowering, and Penn State Extension warns that “Arugula will bolt quicker under higher temperatures, decreasing flavor quality.” Wisconsin describes the trigger in detail: long days, high temperatures or dry soil push the plant to produce a single, branched flower stem that can reach 2 to 3 feet tall.

Shade is the simplest defense. NC State says some shade can be beneficial in hot climates to deter bolting, and Wisconsin notes that light shade may help slow bolting during the hottest part of the season. UF/IFAS recommends keeping arugula in afternoon shade whenever temperatures climb above 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Cornell also says to reduce heat and moisture stress to slow bolting.

Timing helps too. Penn State advises a late fall field planting or a winter high tunnel to grow arugula in cooler weather. The sowing windows above keep most crops in cool weather, which is the simplest way to avoid early bolting.

Flea beetles and other pests

Arugula has few pests, but flea beetles are the main nuisance. Wisconsin says flea beetles “can damage leaves or completely devour small plants when numerous.” Penn State describes the shot-hole damage they leave on the leaves, and NC State and Cornell both list flea beetles among the common problems. Aphids also show up in several guides.

Row covers are the physical defense the sources name. Wisconsin notes that they “can be used to keep flea beetles off the plants,” but it adds a timing warning. Because these insects overwinter in the soil, they could emerge under a cover that goes on too early. Choose the date for laying covers with that warning in mind.

Cornell lists downy mildew as a disease problem, and NC State lists bacterial leaf spot and powdery mildew as minor problems. This post does not give disease advice beyond good air movement and good spacing, which UF/IFAS mentions as a general practice.

Harvest for flavor

Start picking when the leaves are useful. UF/IFAS says to start harvesting when leaves reach about 2 to 3 inches long, and Wisconsin says leaves can be picked once they are a couple of inches long. Pick the outer leaves first and leave the inner ones to keep growing. UF/IFAS adds that regular harvesting encourages new leaf growth and prolongs the season.

Flavor changes with age and weather. Wisconsin describes the tender young leaves as spicy and pungent, with a nutty-peppery or horseradish-like taste. It says that older leaves develop a stronger, more bitter flavor, and that drought and summer heat intensify the leaves. NC State says to pick young leaves for the same reason. Harvest often, while the leaves are young.

After plants bolt, the rest of the plant still has value. NC State says the flowers and seed pods can be harvested once plants bolt. Wisconsin says the flowers are edible and make a garnish. Cornell notes that arugula often self-seeds, and it says the seed can be saved for five years. If you want more arugula next year, let a few plants go to seed in a corner of the bed.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Sowing in peak summer heat. Cornell and Penn State both link bolting to heat, and Cornell adds moisture stress, so time the sowings for cool weather.
Leaving plants crowded after sowing. Cornell and NC State recommend thinning, and the thinnings make good salad greens.
Waiting too long to pick. Older leaves turn bitter, so harvest the outer leaves while they are young.
Putting covers on too early. Wisconsin warns that flea beetles overwintering in the soil can emerge under an early row cover.
Using a small pot. NC State recommends a pot of at least 3 gallons with a depth of 4 to 6 inches.

How we chose

These sources are university extension publications that cover arugula step by step. Each page was opened with curl on 2026-10-23 and returned HTTP 200. Wisconsin gives the most complete account of sowing, harvest and flavor, and Cornell and NC State add concise spacing and container figures. The UF/IFAS Extension Leon County blog covers timing, watering and care, and the Penn State article explains bolting and flea beetles for growers in the Northeast.

The guide recommends no products and no pest sprays. Where sources disagree on thinning spacing and sowing windows, the figures are shown side by side. The Penn State article is written for commercial growers, so its advice is used only for the general reasons behind bolting and flea beetle damage.

What we could not verify

This section separates what the sources state from what they leave open. Where a source gives no number, this post gives none.

What the sources do not say

The sources we opened do not agree on one sowing window or one thinning spacing. Cornell and NC State use 6 inches, Wisconsin gives 3 to 6 inches, and UF/IFAS gives 6 to 8 inches for transplants. The sowing windows also differ, so each reader has to check the local frost dates.

They do not give a yield for a home bed, and they do not say how many harvests one planting will give. NC State says plants can be harvested after six weeks, but no source gives a count of cuttings per plant for home gardens.

The sources we opened do not provide control steps for disease, and this post does not add any. The Penn State article describes commercial conditions in the Northeast, and the sources do not say how far its figures apply to a backyard bed in a different region.

Frequently asked questions

Can you grow arugula in summer?

You can, but expect faster bolting. NC State says arugula tends to bolt and flower in hot weather, so grow it in the cooler spring and fall. Afternoon shade and steady moisture help slow bolting in summer, according to UF/IFAS and Wisconsin.

How deep should arugula seed go?

Cornell says to plant about a quarter inch deep and about an inch apart in rows. Wisconsin says to sow shallowly as soon as the soil can be worked.

How far apart should arugula plants be?

Most sources point to about 6 inches. NC State says to thin seedlings out to 6 inches, Cornell says to thin to 6-inch spacing, and Wisconsin gives a range of 3 to 6 inches. Transplants get 6 to 8 inches in UF/IFAS advice.

Can arugula grow in containers?

Yes. NC State says to use a pot of at least 3 gallons with a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Wisconsin says the crop can be grown in containers and even indoors on a bright windowsill in winter.

Why does arugula taste bitter?

Older leaves are the usual cause. Wisconsin says older leaves develop a stronger, more bitter flavor, and NC State advises picking young leaves for that reason. Drought and summer heat can also intensify the flavor.

Sources

Cornell Cooperative Extension, Cornell Garden-Based Learning, Arugula growing guide: https://gardening.cals.cornell.edu/?p=9279 (opened 2026-10-23)
UF/IFAS Extension Leon County, Arugula: Planting and Care: https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/leonco/2023/11/09/arugula-planting-and-care/ (opened 2026-10-23)
University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension, Arugula, Eruca sativa: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/arugula (opened 2026-10-23)
NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox, Arugula, Eruca vesicaria: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/eruca-vesicaria/common-name/arugula/ (opened 2026-10-23)
Penn State Extension, Production Limitations of Arugula in the Northeast: https://extension.psu.edu/production-limitations-of-arugula-in-the-northeast (opened 2026-10-23)